<\/p>\n
Je\u0161t\u011b nikdy jsme nep\u0159ekro\u010dili hranice Alb\u00e1nie, je\u0161t\u011b nikdy jsme k\u00a0tomu nenalezli odvahu.\u00a0<\/p>\n
A za okny to vypad\u00e1 na\u00a0 listopad. Top\u00edme a n\u011bjak se nechceme sm\u00ed\u0159it s\u00a0faktem, \u017ee se schyluje k\u00a0 zazimov\u00e1n\u00ed. \u017de bychom vyrazili do tepla, projeli si moji obl\u00edbenou Jadranskou magistr\u00e1lu a kone\u010dn\u011b ony magick\u00e9 hranice u Skadarsk\u00e9ho jezera p\u0159ekro\u010dili? Jedeme!<\/p>\n
Pepa u\u017e se n\u011bjak nem\u016f\u017ee do\u010dkat, vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme<\/p>\n
ve \u010dtvrtek 9.9. 2010 <\/strong><\/p>\n j\u00e1 na CBF 1000<\/p>\n Pepa na FJR 1300<\/p>\n P\u00e1r dal\u0161\u00edch zoufalc\u016f za n\u00e1mi vyraz\u00ed z\u00edtra.<\/p>\n P\u0159i odjezdu, v\u00a08,30h m\u00e1m dilema. Vz\u00edt si tmav\u00e9 br\u00fdle, \u010di nepromok? Vyhr\u00e1v\u00e1 to druh\u00e9. Beru si nepromok a dob\u0159e d\u011bl\u00e1m. Kousky modr\u00e9 oblohy miz\u00ed, n\u00e9 \u017ee by zrovna pr\u0161elo, ale m\u017e\u00ed a alespo\u0148 v\u00a0t\u00e9 zelen\u00e9, plandav\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011bnce neprofouknu.<\/p>\n \u00a0Cesta ub\u00edh\u00e1, jen ve Vele\u0161\u00edn\u011b vystrkuje z\u00a0vedlej\u0161\u00ed auto, s\u00a0n\u011bjak\u00fdm tajtrdl\u00edkem za volantem, \u010dum\u00e1k do silnice v\u00edc ne\u017e se slu\u0161\u00ed a pat\u0159\u00ed. Ve Dvo\u0159i\u0161ti se Pepy pt\u00e1m, zda mu tam ten tajtrdl\u00edk taky vadil a on odv\u011bt\u00ed, \u017ee ne\u0161lo o \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9ho tajtrdl\u00ed\u010dka, ale o Oldmanna. Nev\u0161imla jsem si, \u0161koda, zastavila bych.<\/p>\n \u00a0Kupujeme 10ti denn\u00ed zn\u00e1mky do Rakouska za 120,-K\u010d a zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee n\u00e1m to tentokr\u00e1t nevych\u00e1z\u00ed. Vracet se chceme a\u017e za dn\u00ed 11.<\/p>\n \u00a0V\u00a0Linci naj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme na d\u00e1lnici a spole\u010dn\u011b s\u00a0mnoha dal\u0161\u00edmi nale\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdmi stroji to st\u0159ih\u00e1me a\u017e do Triebenu. V\u00a0Admontu plat\u00edme 4,50 E za moto.<\/p>\n \u00a0V Triebnu na benz\u00ednce stoj\u00ed H-D\u010dek a podobn\u00fdch stroj\u016f taky dost. Uv\u011bdomujeme si, \u017ee se v\u00a0tomhle term\u00ednu v\u011bt\u0161inou z\u00a0Chorvatska vrac\u00edme a od Klagenfurtu\u00a0 b\u00fdv\u00e1 hust\u00fd motoprovoz. Asi tu maj\u00ed n\u011bkde hn\u00edzdo, anebo v\u00a0tomhle term\u00ednu pravideln\u00fd sraz.\u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0M\u00e1m trochu obavy, \u017ee m\u00e9 obl\u00edben\u00e9 zat\u00e1\u010dky na Pols budou mokr\u00e9, ale nakonec je fajn, jede se dob\u0159e.<\/p>\n V\u00a0Polsu d\u00e1v\u00e1me vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed frankfurtsk\u00e9 p\u00e1rky na benz\u00ednce s\u00a0dom\u00e1ckou atmosf\u00e9rou a p\u00e1r \u0161tamgasty.<\/p>\n D\u00e1le na Klagenfurt, Loibelpass mezi mnoha dal\u0161\u00edmi motorkami a, nepo\u010d\u00edt\u00e1m-li kra\u0165ounk\u00e9 bl\u00e1tiv\u00e9 endurko za Neumarketem, bez ru\u0161iv\u00fdch z\u00e1\u017eitk\u016f. Prost\u011b motopohoda.<\/p>\n Na Loiblu dokonce sund\u00e1v\u00e1m nepromok a vcuc\u00e1v\u00e1m slune\u010dn\u00ed paprsky do motohadr\u016f.<\/p>\n P\u0159ed slovinskou d\u00e1lnic\u00ed zn\u00e1mky kupovat nemus\u00edme. Koupili jsme si na ja\u0159e, p\u0159i spr\u00e1vn\u00e9m p\u0159edpokladu, \u017ee se t\u00edmhle sm\u011brem vyd\u00e1me v\u00edckr\u00e1t, \u00a0rovnou p\u016flro\u010dn\u00ed za 25E.<\/p>\n Vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me ji p\u0159ed Kranjem a u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si ji a\u017e do Postojne. Jen u Ljubljany\u00a0 si ji moc neu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me. Vlastn\u011b docela jo.\u00a0 To \u010dern\u00e9, co se p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi objevilo, nebyly mraky pln\u00e9 de\u0161t\u011b, \u010deho\u017e\u00a0 jsem se ob\u00e1vala, ale mraky pln\u00e9 krup, \u010deho\u017e jsem se ob\u00e1vat nestihla. P\u0159i prvn\u00edm \u00fatoku do plexi, m\u011b napadlo, \u017ee to nem\u016f\u017ee vydr\u017eet. Po chv\u00edli jsem ka\u0161lala na plexi, koukala p\u0159ed motorku a \u0161ly mi hlavou my\u0161lenky, jak dlouho se d\u00e1 t\u011bmito\u00a0 velik\u00fdmi, ledov\u00fdmi kuli\u010dkami jet. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed jsme to nemuseli zji\u0161\u0165ovat prakticky. Postavil se n\u00e1m do cesty most a s\u00a0n\u00edm hlubok\u00e9 oddechnut\u00ed. S\u00a0n\u00e1mi pod n\u00edm p\u0159e\u010dk\u00e1v\u00e1 to bo\u017e\u00ed dopu\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed i p\u00e1rek n\u011bmc\u016f na bavor\u00e1k\u00e1ch. Pan\u00ed jen nev\u011b\u0159\u00edcn\u011b z\u00edr\u00e1 na val\u00edc\u00ed se vodu, na bu\u0161\u00edc\u00ed kusy ledu a p\u00e1n se zub\u00ed od ucha k\u00a0uchu a r\u00e1d by pokecal.<\/p>\n \u00a0Kdy\u017e uzn\u00e1me, \u017ee tenhle d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 u\u017e je pr\u016fjezdn\u00fd, pokra\u010dujeme. Nepromok si neberu, u\u017e je to fakt zbyte\u010dn\u00fd. V\u00a0Postojne na sjezdu u\u017e do n\u00e1s op\u011bt pere slun\u00ed\u010dko. Schnu a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1m se vyh\u0159\u00edvat. Teplom\u011br hl\u00e1s\u00ed 18\u00b0- 19\u00b0C.<\/p>\n \u00a0V\u00a0Rup\u011b, po p\u00e1r kilometrech ujet\u00fdch na chorvatsk\u00e9m asfaltu, plat\u00edme 4,50 KN, naj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme na d\u00e1lnici, v\u00a0Rijece- 570km od domova koukneme, zda n\u00e1m n\u011bkdo neukradl mo\u0159e a sypeme to po Jadransk\u00fd magistr\u00e1le na jisto a\u017e do Selc\u016f. Tady nach\u00e1z\u00edme bez probl\u00e9mu apartm\u00e1n, kde u\u017e na\u0161e motorky znaj\u00ed mramor na dvo\u0159e. Ubytujeme se za 20,-E\/os a jdeme na v\u00fdborn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00e9 j\u00eddlo.<\/p>\n V\u00a0noci fouk\u00e1. Ne! FOUK\u00c1!<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n P\u00e1tek 10.9.<\/strong><\/p>\n V\u00edtr nejen \u017ee neust\u00e1v\u00e1, ale naopak dost\u00e1v\u00e1 \u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 gr\u00e1dy. Tohle nen\u00ed v\u00edtr, to je n\u011bco jin\u00e9ho, \u010demu nem\u016f\u017eu p\u0159ij\u00edt na jm\u00e9no. N\u011bjak se mi do toho nechce. Neskute\u010dn\u00e9, nel\u00e1k\u00e1 m\u011b motorka a ani Jadransk\u00e1 magistr\u00e1la. M\u00e1m obavy.<\/p>\n \u00a0Opr\u00e1vn\u011bn\u00e9.<\/p>\n P\u0159i v\u00fdjezdu ze Selc\u016f stoj\u00edm na k\u0159i\u017eovatce, zap\u00edr\u00e1m se proti v\u011btru. Peru se s\u00a0n\u00edm co to d\u00e1 a v\u00edm, \u017ee je naprost\u00fd nesmysl,\u00a0 zvednout nohu na za\u0159azen\u00ed. \u00a0Sna\u017e\u00edm se to ust\u00e1t. Kdy\u017e usoud\u00edm, \u017ee v\u011btru tro\u0161ku doch\u00e1z\u00ed s\u00edly, p\u0159eci jen nohu zvednu. Byla to lest. S\u00edla mu nedoch\u00e1zela, \u010dekal na to, zachecht\u00e1 se a po\u0161le mi poryv p\u011bkn\u011b z\u00a0leva a h\u00e1z\u00ed mi\u00a0 motorku na pravou nohu. Nohu dost\u00e1v\u00e1m ven, ale motorku nem\u00e1m \u0161anci v\u00a0t\u00fdhle fujavici zvednout.<\/p>\n \u00a0Pepa je kdesi v\u00a0nedohlednu \u00a0a m\u011b se chce vzteky bre\u010det.\u00a0 Na m\u00edsto \u010dinu p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed mlad\u00fd sympa\u0165\u00e1k, ne\u017e stihnu n\u011bco \u0159\u00edct pov\u00edd\u00e1 : ,, bura bacila\u201c a zub\u00ed se. P\u0159itak\u00e1m: ,,bura bacila\u201c a v\u016fbec nem\u00e1m chu\u0165 se zubit. \u00a0Zato v\u00edt\u00e1m jeho pomoc. Spolu motorku zved\u00e1me a k\u00a0tomuhle divadlu p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed auto. Sympa\u0165\u00e1k, kter\u00fd se mi sice p\u0159edstavil, ale j\u00e1 si jm\u00e9no nezapamatovala, ho zdrav\u00ed a mn\u011b \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee je to taky kamarad motorkar.\u00a0 Kamarad motorkar vrt\u00edc hlavou \u0159\u00edk\u00e1: ,,dnes ne moto! Dnes ne dobro na moto! Dnes bura\u201c. V\u0161imla jsem si.<\/p>\n \u00a0Sympa\u0165\u00e1k mi tla\u010d\u00ed motorku do relativn\u00edho z\u00e1v\u011bt\u0159\u00ed a zji\u0161\u0165ujeme \u0161kody. Ulomen\u00e1 brzdov\u00e1 p\u00e1\u010dka. Nic v\u00edc. Alespo\u0148 tak. P\u00e1\u010dku m\u00e1m pod sedlem. Chorvat se pt\u00e1, zda mi m\u00e1 pomoct a j\u00e1 sebev\u011bdom\u011b \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m, \u017ee tu m\u00e1m man\u017eela,\u00a0 kter\u00fd hned p\u0159ijede a ve skrytu du\u0161e douf\u00e1m, \u017ee si Pepa m\u00e9 nep\u0159\u00edtomnosti v\u0161imne d\u0159\u00edv ne\u017e u Zadaru. Nakonec v\u0161iml. P\u0159eci jen se pro mne vr\u00e1til. Lou\u010d\u00edme se s\u00a0klukem, moc mu d\u011bkuju, m\u011bn\u00edme p\u00e1\u010dku p\u0159i okolo l\u00e9taj\u00edc\u00edch popelnic\u00edch a \u2026\u2026\u2026a m\u011b se nechce znovu za \u0159id\u00edtka. Hodn\u011b divnej pocit.<\/p>\n \u00a0P\u0159eci jen do buri vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme. Kamarad motorkar m\u011bl recht. Dnes ne dobro na moto.<\/p>\n \u00a0Sna\u017e\u00edm se pozitivn\u011b myslet. Jsem na motorce na Jadransk\u00fd magistr\u00e1le. Nepr\u0161\u00ed. Vpravo mo\u0159e, vlevo sk\u00e1ly. To m\u00e1m p\u0159eci r\u00e1da! Dnes ne. Dnes \u010dek\u00e1m, zda skon\u010d\u00edm v\u00a0tom mo\u0159i, \u010di v\u00a0t\u011bch skal\u00e1ch. M\u00e1m bezmocn\u00fd pocit, \u017ee moji motorku \u0159\u00edd\u00ed n\u011bkdo jin\u00fd. P\u0159ipad\u00e1m si jako ba\u0165\u016f\u017eek p\u0159ilepen\u00fd na z\u00e1da \u0161\u00edlen\u00e9mu jezdci.<\/p>\n Prvn\u011b v\u00a0\u017eivot\u011b za\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m na motorce strach. N\u00e9 respekt, ale nefal\u0161ovan\u00fd strach.\u00a0 Ten pocit se mi ani malinko nezamlouv\u00e1.<\/p>\n \u00a0Po d\u011bsiv\u011b dlouh\u00fdch p\u00e1r kilometrech se dovln\u00edme do Senju. A za n\u00edm n\u011bkdo kompetentn\u00ed dostal rozum a zahradil magistr\u00e1lu z\u00e1vorou s\u00a0v\u00fdmluvn\u00fdmi zna\u010dkami. V\u00edtr, z\u00e1kaz vjezdu motorek, n\u00e1kla\u010f\u00e1k\u016f, autobus\u016f. Osob\u00e1ky z\u00e1voru obj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed, Pepa taky, j\u00e1 taky. Po p\u00e1r metrech, p\u0159i pohledu na stromy p\u0159ede mnou stav\u00edm. Sice nejist\u011b a vachrlat\u011b, ale stoj\u00edm. Tak tudy ne! Oni p\u0159eci v\u011bd\u00ed, co d\u011blaj\u00ed! Do toho se pou\u0161t\u011bt nebudu. Ot\u00e1\u010d\u00edm. Nakonec ot\u00e1\u010d\u00ed i Pepa, dohrabeme se zp\u011bt do Senju, zaparkujeme v\u00a0jak\u017e tak\u017e z\u00e1v\u011bt\u0159\u00ed ( i kdy\u017e i tady m\u00e1m strach, \u017ee motorky spadnou ze stoj\u00e1nk\u016f) na n\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, kam jindy poklidn\u00fd Jadran, te\u010f sy\u010d\u00edc\u00ed a prskaj\u00edc\u00ed, vyl\u00e9v\u00e1 marnotratn\u011b hektolitry vody.\u00a0 Jdeme do hospody na kafe a uva\u017eovat kudy kam. P\u0159i uva\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed kouk\u00e1m na dva odv\u00e1\u017en\u00e9 \u010dopristy ze \u0160v\u00fdcar proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed\u00a0 Senjem d\u00e1l. Byli odv\u00e1\u017en\u00ed stejn\u011b jako my. Za chv\u00edli se vrac\u00ed a stejn\u011b jako my z\u00edraj\u00ed do mapy.<\/p>\n No co, pokus\u00edme se vyjet nahoru a najet na d\u00e1lnici. Chci z\u00a0pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed pry\u010d! Nikdy bych nev\u011b\u0159ila, \u017ee tohle \u0159eknu.<\/p>\n Nad pob\u0159e\u017e\u00edm sed\u00ed mraky, nepromok si ale neberu. Cvi\u010d\u00ed se mnou i v\u00a0podstatn\u011b slab\u0161\u00edm v\u011btru. V\u00a0t\u00fdhle bure by se z\u00a0n\u011bj stala plachta a n\u011bkam by se mnou odplula.\u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0Vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme nad m\u011bsto, na plexi dopadaj\u00ed prvn\u00ed kapky de\u0161t\u011b a \u2026\u2026.bura se m\u011bn\u00ed v\u00a0norm\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00edtr. Hur\u00e1! Jen a\u0165 klidn\u011b leje, kdy\u017e to bude znamenat konec nepl\u00e1novan\u00e9ho zm\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed\u00a0 se po silnici.<\/p>\n \u00a0Bereme si d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00ed l\u00edstky a pokra\u010dujeme docela siln\u00fdm de\u0161t\u011bm d\u00e1l.\u00a0 Cedule hl\u00e1s\u00ed 12\u00b0-13\u00b0C a m\u00e9 promokl\u00e9 t\u011blo hl\u00e1s\u00ed, \u017ee je to blbost, mus\u00ed b\u00fdt tak o 10\u00b0 m\u00ed\u0148.<\/p>\n \u00a0Tankujeme benz\u00edn za 8,48 KN, rvu si nepromok pod bundu, \u0159\u00edk\u00e1me si, \u017ee je zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed, \u017ee tudy nejede \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd autobus ani kamion a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme d\u00e1l s\u00a0p\u0159edsevzet\u00edm, \u017ee mokrou d\u00e1lnici neopust\u00edme, dokud to nebude nutn\u00e9.\u00a0 Nutn\u00e9 to je po chv\u00edli. Blikaj\u00edc\u00ed sv\u011bteln\u00e9 cedule n\u00e1m hl\u00e1s\u00ed to sam\u00e9, co na magistr\u00e1le. P\u0159ed n\u00e1mi je bura. Proto ta absence kamion\u016f.<\/p>\n \u00a0Poslouch\u00e1me ceduli ,, obljaz\u201c . U Gra\u010dacu plat\u00edme 20 KN za motorku za projet\u00fd \u00fasek a po tro\u0161ku rozbit\u00e9, mokr\u00e9 silnici uh\u00e1n\u00edme na Knin. Za norm\u00e1ln\u00ed situace by se mi tento zp\u016fsob po\u010das\u00ed, zd\u00e1l pon\u011bkud ne\u0161\u0165astn\u00fdm. Dnes jsem \u0161\u0165astn\u00e1 za zimu, d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 a norm\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00edtr.<\/p>\n \u00a0V\u00a0Kninu stav\u00edme na pizzu a rozmrznut\u00ed u \u010daje. Trochu se mi to da\u0159\u00ed.<\/p>\n \u00a0P\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1 pr\u0161et a kroucenou silnici s\u00a0p\u011bkn\u00fdmi v\u00fdhledy si kone\u010dn\u011b u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m.<\/p>\n \u00a0V\u00a0Sinj, m\u011bste\u010dku le\u017e\u00edc\u00edmu 35km od Splitu, n\u00e1s zastavuje pohled na n\u011bjakou starou stavbu na kopci. P\u0159esp\u00edme, prozkoum\u00e1me.<\/p>\n \u00a0Hotel ,,Alkar\u201c (230KN noc\/os) nach\u00e1z\u00edme na radu usm\u011bvav\u00e9ho policajta na BMW.<\/p>\n Tak\u017ee ubytov\u00e1no. Te\u010f zkoumat.<\/p>\n Co? Mno to, co n\u00e1s zastavilo. Kostel nad m\u011bstem, s\u00a0n\u011bjakou postavou shl\u00ed\u017eej\u00edc\u00ed na m\u011bsto. Kostel je postaven, tak jako v\u011bt\u0161ina zaj\u00edmav\u00fdch m\u00edst, na kopci. Pro\u010d? Jasn\u00e9! Aby turist\u00e9 z\u00a0jednadvac\u00e1t\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed remcali, \u017ee je to daleko, vysoko, \u017ee se jim tam nechce. Aby byla za\u017eehnuta turistova zv\u011bdavost, kter\u00e1 ho donut\u00ed zvednout zadek z\u00a0motorky, nazout po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 boty a d\u00e1t zabrat sval\u016fm jin\u00fdm, ne\u017e sedac\u00edm.<\/p>\n \u00a0Nejsem si a\u017e tak \u00fapln\u011b jist\u00e1, zda pr\u00e1v\u011b tohle donutilo stavitele kostela Matky Bo\u017e\u00ed Sinjske k\u00a0\u010dinu. Asi mu svaly budouc\u00edch turist\u016f na srdci nele\u017eely, ale cht\u011bl vyj\u00e1d\u0159it vd\u011b\u010dnost Matce Bo\u017e\u00ed Sinjske za jej\u00ed pomoc m\u011bstu p\u0159i tureck\u00e9m oblo\u017een\u00ed roku 1715. Zase Turci! A taky bylo zapot\u0159eb\u00ed zajistit n\u011bjak\u00fd d\u016fstojn\u00fd svatost\u00e1nek pro z\u00e1zra\u010dn\u00fd, ben\u00e1tsk\u00fd obraz Matky Bo\u017e\u00ed Sinjske.<\/p>\n \u00a0M\u011bli jsme tu b\u00fdt p\u0159ed m\u011bs\u00edcem (nebo rad\u011bji ne). Na za\u010d\u00e1tku srpna se tu sejde 100 tis\u00edc v\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00edch p\u0159i oslav\u00e1ch Velika Gospa. M\u011bli jsme tu b\u00fdt p\u0159ed m\u011bs\u00edcem (ano!)! Oslav\u00e1m p\u0159edch\u00e1z\u00ed vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e1 ryt\u00ed\u0159sk\u00e1 sout\u011b\u017e Sinjska alka. Brn\u011bn\u00ed\u00a0 chrast\u00ed, me\u010de se bl\u00fdskaj\u00ed, kon\u00edm ze zdej\u0161\u00edho vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9ho chovu se vzru\u0161en\u00edm leskle pot, \u0161varn\u00ed jino\u0161i p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed jezdeck\u00e9 \u0161koly\u2026\u2026.. \u00a0No nic, to neuvid\u00edme. Tak jen vyraz\u00edme ke kostelu a pot\u00edme se sami. Postavy k\u0159\u00ed\u017eov\u00e9 cesty v\u00a0\u017eivotn\u00ed velikosti si prohl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme d\u00e9le, ne\u017e je nutn\u00e9. Pot\u0159ebujeme se vyd\u00fdchat.<\/p>\n Naho\u0159e postoj\u00edme po boku Matky Bo\u017e\u00ed a shl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme s\u00a0n\u00ed na klidn\u00e9 m\u011bsto . Krom\u011b kon\u00ed a pout\u011bmi je pr\u00fd prohl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 i kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdm um\u011bn\u00edm, v\u00fdborn\u011b p\u0159ipravit cokoliv, co plave, leze, sk\u00e1\u010de, roste\u2026\u2026<\/p>\n Ope\u010den\u00e9, osma\u017een\u00e9 \u010di jinak uklohn\u011bn\u00e9 potvory n\u00e1s l\u00e1kaj\u00ed do ulic. P\u0159i spat\u0159en\u00ed \u0161irok\u00e9 ulice pln\u00e9 hospod je Pepa ohromen, co\u017e se projevilo slovy:\u00a0 ,,Stodoln\u00ed! Oni sem p\u0159est\u011bhovali Stodoln\u00ed!\u201c\u00a0 V\u0161ude stovky \u017eidli\u010dek! Jen je podivn\u011b mraziv\u00fd pohled na jejich pr\u00e1zdnotu. Nikde nen\u00ed jedin\u00fd host. Mo\u017en\u00e1 tu pod\u00e1vaj\u00ed potvory v\u0161emo\u017en\u011b uklohn\u011bn\u00e9, ale jedovat\u00e9. A nebo, prost\u011b a jednodu\u0161e turisty st\u00e1hla d\u00e1lnice a ti te\u010f m\u00edsto, aby posed\u00e1vali v\u00a0centru historick\u00e9ho m\u011bste\u010dka, poj\u00eddaj\u00ed bagety na benz\u00ednk\u00e1ch nadn\u00e1rodn\u00edch spole\u010dnost\u00ed p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f odtud.\u00a0 V\u011b\u0159\u00edme druh\u00e9 verzi a objedn\u00e1v\u00e1me si.<\/p>\n J\u00e1 ze zv\u011bdavosti, a mo\u017en\u00e1 trochu roze\u017eranosti, \u017eaby na \u017earu s pr\u0161utom. Stoj\u00ed 84KN. Tak tohle j\u00edm prvn\u011b. Je to dobr\u00e9. S\u00a0trochou nads\u00e1zky mi to p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 n\u011bco mezi ku\u0159etem a kr\u00e1l\u00edkem. M\u00e1 to hafo sv\u011btl\u00fdch kost\u00ed.\u00a0 Pos\u00edl\u00e1me Danovi MMS s\u00a0ot\u00e1zkou, co\u017ee to j\u00edm. Za uhodnutou odpov\u011b\u010f jsem mu sl\u00edbila lahev Tulamorky. Odpov\u00edd\u00e1 \u0161patn\u011b. Sprost\u00fdm slovem. Asi si doma d\u00e1v\u00e1 chleby se sal\u00e1mem a moje MMS mu p\u0159i\u0161la jako provokativn\u00ed. \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0Nast\u00e1v\u00e1 \u010das p\u0159\u00edchoz\u00edch SMS. Honza hl\u00e1s\u00ed p\u0159\u00edjezd do Molunatu. Muf a Navr\u00e1tilovi do Selc\u016f na mramor a Lucka varuje z\u00a0domova s\u00a0katastrof\u00e1ln\u00ed progn\u00f3zou o po\u010das\u00ed na chorvatsk\u00e9m pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed.<\/p>\n Us\u00edn\u00e1m a ani si nev\u0161\u00edm\u00e1m, \u017ee Pepa sleduje v\u00a0televizi agenta 007. To si pr\u00fd v\u017edy p\u0159\u00e1l. Pod\u00edvat se na Bonda v\u00a0chorvat\u0161tin\u011b. Poda\u0159ilo se.<\/p>\n \u00a0B\u011bhem noci m\u011b bud\u00ed opileck\u00e9 SMS od Mufa a ki\u0161a za oknem.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Ujeto\u00a0 301 km<\/p>[Not a valid template] \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Sobota 11.9. <\/strong><\/p>\n \u00a0Op\u011bt dilema zda br\u00fdle, \u010di nepromok. Vyhr\u00e1v\u00e1 nepromok pod bundu. Bunda je\u0161t\u011b neuschla. Fouk\u00e1 tak akor\u00e1t, ale na magistr\u00e1lu se neodva\u017eujeme. A to jsem se na ni tak t\u011b\u0161ila.\u00a0 Ale a\u010d nem\u00e1m d\u00e1lnice r\u00e1da, mus\u00edm uznat, \u017ee tahle m\u00e1 n\u011bco do sebe. Propl\u00e9t\u00e1 se Biokovem a po\u0159\u00e1d je na co koukat. Pohodu such\u00e9, p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 cesty mi ni\u010d\u00ed jen pohled na rafi\u010dku benz\u00ednu a na slep\u00e9 cedule na benz\u00ednky. Jednou tu budou, te\u010f je\u0161t\u011b ne. Ale j\u00e1 pot\u0159ebuji benz\u00edn te\u010f.<\/p>\n \u00a0V\u00a0Rav\u010de d\u00e1lnice kon\u010d\u00ed a m\u011b to v\u016fbec nevad\u00ed. Plat\u00edme 17 Kn za projet\u00fd \u00fasek, nach\u00e1z\u00edme benz\u00ednku, m\u011bn\u00edm nepromok za slune\u010dn\u00ed br\u00fdle a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1m kone\u010dn\u011b v\u011b\u0159it tomu, \u017ee jsem na dovolen\u00e9 v\u00a0Chorvatsku.<\/p>\n Za Rav\u010dou se rozprost\u00edr\u00e1 n\u00e1horn\u00ed planina a na n\u00ed typick\u00e1 mal\u00e1 pol\u00ed\u010dka. Kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 zat\u00e1\u010dky n\u00e1s dov\u00e1d\u00ed stavbou d\u00e1lnice k\u00a0nov\u00e9mu, efektn\u00edmu p\u0159\u00edjezdu k\u00a0delt\u011b Neretvy .\u00a0 Trhovci tu prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed barevn\u00e9 lahve s\u00a0mokem vo\u0148av\u00fdm po bylink\u00e1ch,\u00a0 ovoci, oliv\u00e1ch. \u00a0F\u00edky su\u0161en\u00e9 i \u010derstv\u00e9, ovoce v\u0161emo\u017en\u00e9, hlavn\u011b vo\u0148av\u00e9 sluncem a p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00fdm vzduchem.<\/p>\n \u00a0A u\u017e kone\u010dn\u011b magistr\u00e1la bez v\u011btru a za p\u00e1r dovolenkov\u011b \u00fa\u017easn\u00fdch kilometr\u016f m\u00e1me mo\u017enost spat\u0159it plovouc\u00ed panel\u00e1ky zakotven\u00e9 u dubrovnick\u00e9ho mola.<\/p>\n \u00a0Je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed Dubrovn\u00edkem, u cedule ,,kamp Molunat 100km\u201c Pepovi bouchly saze jako p\u0159i n\u00e1vratu dom\u016f. T\u011b\u0161il se na poklidn\u00e9 posezen\u00ed se \u0161tamgasty p\u0159ed kr\u00e1mkem, na pop\u00edjen\u00ed karlova\u010dka na terase nad mo\u0159em, na Andrejka, na\u0161e letit\u00e9 chorvatsk\u00e9 z\u00e1zem\u00ed.<\/p>\n \u00a0Cedule l\u017ee! Za rovn\u00fdch 88km zastavujeme motorky pod svatoj\u00e1nsk\u00fdm chlebem, m\u00e1v\u00e1me rozesm\u00e1t\u00e9mu Andrejkovi na terasu, p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1me skleni\u010dky rakije a odpov\u00edd\u00e1me na ot\u00e1zky, kterak se n\u00e1m da\u0159\u00ed a pro\u010d jsme loni nedorazili.\u00a0 Andrejko a ostatn\u00ed jsou moc srde\u010dn\u00ed a mil\u00ed. P\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety n\u00e1m tu nab\u00edzel ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed gratis na jak dlouho budeme cht\u00edt, jen abychom nevyj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli do de\u0161t\u011b.<\/p>\n Nic moc se tu nezm\u011bnilo, jen molo je roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159eno. Tuhle zm\u011bnu jsem uv\u00edtala. P\u0159i potk\u00e1n\u00ed auta jsem m\u011bla v\u017edy obavu, \u017ee skon\u010d\u00edm v\u00a0mo\u0159i.\u00a0 A pr\u00fd si tu chce jeden m\u00edstn\u00ed postavit hotel. To ne! Hotel do t\u00e9hle o\u00e1zy klidu nepat\u0159\u00ed! Pr\u00fd nem\u00e1me m\u00edt obavy. Neprojde to.<\/p>\n \u00a0Plk\u00e1me o tom, \u017ee tu t\u0159i m\u011bs\u00edce nepr\u0161elo, \u017ee bylo hork\u00e9 l\u00e9to, \u017ee m\u00e1 Andrejko r\u00e1d \u0160vejka, jak\u00e1 byla sez\u00f3na v\u00a0ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed\u2026\u2026..\u010das p\u0159i tom plk\u00e1n\u00ed a dobr\u00e9m j\u00eddle p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b ub\u00edh\u00e1.\u00a0 P\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed Honza (VW Sharon) , p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed Muf ( honda 500 Silver Wing) a Lubo\u0161 s\u00a0Jarkou ( Yamaha XJR 1300).<\/p>\n \u00a0M\u00e1m tak n\u011bjak nepochopiteln\u011b radost, \u017ee vid\u00edm \u0161kodi\u010de Mufa a ovl\u00e1d\u00e1 m\u011b touha mu za\u0161kodit.\u00a0 Vyp\u00edn\u00e1m mu sv\u011btla, zap\u00edn\u00e1m blinkry, vyp\u00edn\u00e1m starter, prost\u011b ma\u010dk\u00e1m na v\u0161echny \u010dudl\u00edky, vytahuji ant\u00e9nu. Kdy\u017e ji celou dr\u017e\u00edm v\u00a0ruce, tak na ni nev\u011b\u0159\u00edcn\u011b z\u00edr\u00e1m. Tak moc jsem \u0161kodit necht\u011bla.\u00a0 Jen jsem ji opatrn\u011b s\u00a0citem vytahovala a ona pak vyklouzla\u00a0 sama J<\/span> . Stoj\u00edm schl\u00edple s\u00a0ant\u00e9nou v\u00a0ruce a boj\u00edm se pod\u00edvat na Mufa. M\u00e1 to rozbit\u00fd. Rozbila jsem mu to. Jsem chloup\u00e1 chusa, pov\u00edd\u00e1 Muf L<\/span> . Nerada p\u0159izn\u00e1v\u00e1m, \u017ee jsem. Ale stejn\u011b mi vrt\u00e1 hlavou, \u017ee \u0161la tak snadno. Jestli on to na mne nenarafi\u010dil.<\/p>\n Katastrofa se nekon\u00e1. Vypad\u00e1 to, \u017ee se to d\u00e1 spravit. A taky to Muf spravuje. \u00d3 ten \u0161ikovn\u00fd Muf!<\/p>\n \u00a0Ve\u010der p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed na p\u0159et\u0159es z\u00e1\u017eitky z\u00a0cest. Na d\u00e1lnic\u00ed pr\u00fd v\u00edtr zaparkoval dv\u011b BMW do svodidel a pokusil se o to i s\u00a0Honzov\u00fdm VW. Ten se ale nedal. Muf a spol. narazili na stejn\u00e9 p\u0159ek\u00e1\u017eky jako my, tak jeli stejnou cestou, jen bez de\u0161t\u011b.<\/p>\n Lubo\u0161 hrd\u011b ukazuje \u0161r\u00e1me\u010dek na n\u00e1dr\u017ei. Hodil premi\u00e9rov\u00fd vozembouch. Jarka nara\u017een\u00fd zadek hrd\u011b neukazuje. Muf hl\u00e1s\u00ed, \u017ee mus\u00ed odjet u\u017e ve st\u0159edu, tak mus\u00edme napl\u00e1novat v\u00fdlety na z\u00edt\u0159ek a poz\u00edt\u0159\u00ed.<\/p>\n P\u0159i p\u0159ej\u00edd\u00e1n\u00ed a p\u0159ep\u00edjen\u00ed kouk\u00e1me na \u0160t\u011bp\u00e1na, mlad\u00e9ho u\u010dn\u011b, kterak se sna\u017e\u00ed neum\u011ble narazit sud. Lubo\u0161 psychicky nevydr\u017eel, p\u0159istoupil k\u00a0ne\u0161\u0165astn\u00edkovi a se slovy: ,,m\u00e1te \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, \u017ee du zrovna okolo\u201c\u00a0 a chvatem zku\u0161en\u00fdm sud narazil.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Ujeto\u00a0 283km<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n Ned\u011ble 12.9.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u00a0P\u0159i pohodov\u00e9 sn\u00eddani pl\u00e1nujeme v\u00fdlet a Navr\u00e1tilovi hl\u00e1s\u00ed, \u017ee si na n\u00e1s za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed zvykat, tak maj\u00ed sebou po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 boty a bat\u016f\u017eek.\u00a0 Uklid\u0148uju je, dnes to bude m\u00edrn\u00e9. Jen v\u00fd\u0161lap na grad Kotor, co\u017e je kousek nad m\u011bstem.\u00a0 Dovede n\u00e1s k\u00a0n\u011bmu asi tak 60km silnice. Ale to p\u0159edb\u00edh\u00e1m. Nejd\u0159\u00edv je t\u0159eba p\u0159ejet hranice do \u010cern\u00e9 Hory. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00fd probl\u00e9m. Jen Pepa zji\u0161\u0165uje, asi 5 minut p\u0159ed nastartov\u00e1n\u00edm motorek, \u017ee si novou zelenou kartu vzal. Ale \u017ee si nev\u0161iml, \u017ee je nov\u00e1 a\u017e moc. Plat\u00ed od 9.10.2010. Starou, plat\u00edc\u00ed vyhodil.<\/p>\n \u00a0Na hranic\u00edch, 10km od na\u0161eho do\u010dasn\u00e9ho domova, si celn\u00edk m\u016fj zelen\u00fd doklad po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b prohl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed a Pep\u016fv ho nezaj\u00edm\u00e1.<\/p>\n Honza plat\u00ed 10EURO za n\u00e1lepku na okno. Pr\u00fd ro\u010dn\u00ed vstupn\u00e9 do zem\u011b. Motorky nic neplat\u00ed, asi \u017ee nemaj\u00ed okna.<\/p>\n \u00a0Obj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme Boku Kotorskou velmi pomalu. Jednak je se na co d\u00edvat, druhak je tu velk\u00fd provoz a ned\u00e1 se po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bt.<\/p>\n Po cest\u011b se n\u00e1m nask\u00fdt\u00e1 fotogenick\u00fd obr\u00e1zek. Po silnici si to vykra\u010duj\u00ed dv\u011b rozesm\u00e1t\u00e9 jepti\u0161ky a nesou mezi sebou velkou ta\u0161ku s\u00a0ob\u0159\u00edm n\u00e1pisem: ,,ADIDAS\u201c . Uf! Fo\u0165\u00e1k se z\u00a0toho v\u00a0kufru ur\u010dit\u011b opotil.\u00a0 Budu muset n\u011bjak do\u0159e\u0161it focen\u00ed na motorce.<\/p>\n Montenegro u\u017e tak moc nezaost\u00e1v\u00e1 za Chorvatskem, jak tomu bylo je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety.\u00a0 Hodn\u011b se zm\u011bnil vozov\u00fd park i \u0159idi\u010dsk\u00e9 um\u011bn\u00ed. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00e9 houk\u00e1n\u00ed, nesmysln\u00e9 p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed, jak tomu bylo p\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety. Dokonce jsme na silnici nepotkali ani \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 kozy.<\/p>\n Parkujeme motorky na molu, ve st\u00ednu velk\u00e9 lod\u011b. Jen Honza mus\u00ed na parkovi\u0161t\u011b.<\/p>\n M\u00e1m r\u00e1da vno\u0159en\u00ed se do t\u011bchto m\u011bste\u010dek.\u00a0 V\u00a0romantick\u00fdch, \u00fazk\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch se jeden snadno ztrat\u00ed, ale zase se hned najde na nejednom\u00a0 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed\u010dku. Vyfotit si po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b n\u011bjak\u00fd z kostel\u016f, kter\u00e9 tu rostly v\u011bt\u0161inou ve 12t\u00e9m a 13t\u00e9m stolet\u00ed, \u010di pal\u00e1ce z\u00a0stolet\u00ed 15t\u00e9ho a\u017e 17t\u00e9ho je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nemo\u017en\u00e9. Minin\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed\u010dka, jim\u017e tyto skvosty v\u00e9vod\u00ed, to nedovol\u00ed.\u00a0<\/p>\n M\u011bste\u010dkem, o kter\u00e9m je prvn\u00ed zm\u00ednka v\u00a07. stolet\u00ed , proch\u00e1z\u00ed spole\u010dn\u011b s\u00a0n\u00e1mi i spousta jin\u00fdch turist\u016f. Nen\u00ed divu. Kotor je historick\u00fd skvost. Vzhledem k\u00a0ur\u010dit\u00e9 nedobytnosti Boky Kotorsk\u00e9 se tu zachovaly budovy nepocuchan\u00e9. Jen s\u00a0nimi tro\u0161ku zam\u00e1valo zem\u011bt\u0159esen\u00ed v\u00a0roce 1979. Ale i to bylo kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 na vz\u00e1cn\u011b zachovan\u00fd, rozs\u00e1hl\u00fd syst\u00e9m m\u011bstsk\u00e9ho opevn\u011bn\u00ed.<\/p>\n V\u00a0jedn\u00e9 z\u00a0uli\u010dek d\u00fdchaj\u00edc\u00ed minulost\u00ed si kupujeme l\u00edstek za 2EURA, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m dovol\u00ed vystoupat nad m\u011bsto na pevnost ,,Trdjava Sv.Ivana\u201c .<\/p>\n Te\u010f n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 asi tak 1350 schod\u016f, pohodln\u00fdch, \u010di m\u00e9n\u011b pohodln\u00fdch, \u010di dokonce naprosto rozpadl\u00fdch. V\u00fdstup se postupn\u011b m\u011bn\u00ed z nen\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9, m\u011bstsk\u00e9 proch\u00e1zky na t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 horskou t\u016fru. Toho si asi nev\u0161imlo p\u00e1r turistek, zdol\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed c\u00edl v\u00a0pantofl\u00ed\u010dk\u00e1ch s\u00a0kramfl\u00edky. V\u00fdstup n\u00e1m m\u00edrn\u011b komplikovalo prav\u00e9, \u010dernohorsk\u00e9 horko a zp\u0159\u00edjem\u0148ovaly dech berouc\u00ed\u00a0 v\u00fdhledy. Honza vzdal a Pepa si st\u011b\u017eoval na \u0161lendryj\u00e1nskou pr\u00e1ci celn\u00edka. Kdyby d\u011blal svou pr\u00e1ci po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b, tak p\u0159i\u0161el na neplatnou zelenou kartu a Pepa si mohl pohodln\u011b sed\u011bt v\u00a0Molunatu se \u0161tamgastama u piva a nemusel se plaho\u010dit v\u00a0tomhle zatracen\u00fdm vedru, po zatracenejch neschodech, do zatracen\u00fdho kopce,na n\u011bjakou zatracenou Trdjavu, z\u00a0kter\u00fd je ale tak \u00fachvatn\u00fd pohled, \u017ee to nakonec st\u00e1lo za to.<\/p>\n Tady, z\u00a0v\u00fd\u0161ky 260 m.n.m. je star\u00e9 m\u011bsto, lod\u011b, m\u011bstsk\u00e9 opevn\u011bn\u00ed, klidn\u00e1 hladina slan\u00e9 vody ve velik\u00e9m z\u00e1livu jako na dlani. N\u00e1dhera.<\/p>\n O p\u00e1r des\u00edtek minut pozd\u011bji jsme se zase m\u00edrn\u011b zatoulali v\u00a0rozp\u00e1len\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch, nakonec br\u00e1nu z\u00a0m\u011bsta na\u0161li. Vynd\u00e1v\u00e1me smradlav\u00e9 motohadry a motoboty Honzovi z\u00a0auta a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme do hust\u00e9ho provozu sm\u011brem zp\u011bt do Chorvatska.<\/p>\n \u00a0Jen na p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f. Stav\u00edme u restaurace Stare Mlini, kter\u00e1 svou reklamu hl\u00e1s\u00e1 kr\u00e1sn\u00fdmi billboardy u\u017e od Chorvatsk\u00fdch hranic. L\u00e1kav\u00e9 fotky nal\u00e1kaly i n\u00e1s.<\/p>\n Opravdu to tu je kr\u00e1sn\u00e9. \u010clenit\u00e9 rozestav\u011bn\u00ed stol\u016f nad prot\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00edmi pot\u016f\u010dky, m\u016fstky, star\u00e1 ml\u00fdnsk\u00e1 kola. Mn\u011b se ani tro\u0161ku nel\u00edb\u00ed z\u00e1kaz focen\u00ed a nikomu z\u00a0n\u00e1s se ani tro\u0161ku nel\u00edb\u00ed p\u011bt hv\u011bzdi\u010dek a fakt, \u017ee n\u00e1s obsluha \u017eene dovnit\u0159. Uvnit\u0159 je to sice taky hezk\u00e9, stylov\u00e9, ale my chceme b\u00fdt venku.\u00a0 A nesm\u00ed se tu fotit! Pry\u010d!<\/p>\n P\u0159ej\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme tedy do Risanu, d\u00e1v\u00e1me si skv\u011bl\u00e9 stejky s\u00a0v\u00fdhledem na mo\u0159e a palmovou alej.<\/p>\n S\u00a0nacpan\u00fdmi pupky sed\u00e1me za \u0159\u00edd\u00edtka, beru za plyn, abych v\u00a0z\u00e1p\u011bt\u00ed natvrdo brzdila. N\u011bjakej m\u00edstn\u00ed osel v\u00a0Golfu mi tam dost nehezky vjel. S\u00a0nad\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm do p\u0159ilby jedu d\u00e1l.<\/p>\n A\u017e k\u00a0benz\u00ednce. Tady tankujeme za 1,10 Eur, Honza nakupuje bal\u00edky cigaret a se slovy, \u017ee si je m\u00e1me nastrkat do kufr\u016f, n\u00e1m je rozd\u00e1v\u00e1. Muf a j\u00e1 se vehementn\u011b br\u00e1n\u00edme. Nene, my jsme zn\u00e1m\u00ed t\u00edm, \u017ee cigarety ni\u010d\u00edme, p\u0159ece nebudeme ku\u0159\u00e1ky podporovat a dov\u00e1\u017eet jim lacin\u00e1 cig\u00e1ra! Ustupujeme n\u00e1tlaku, ani ne tak pod argumentem, \u017ee tady krabi\u010dka, za kterou se u n\u00e1s i v\u00a0Chorvatsku zaplat\u00ed 60 K\u010d, vyjde na K\u010d 17,- , ale pod t\u00edm, \u017ee jsou pro Andrejka, \u017ee si je u Honzy objednal.<\/p>\n A tak je vid\u011bt nev\u00eddan\u00e9! Muf m\u00e1 v\u00a0ruce karton cigaret! Bohu\u017eel si v\u0161\u00edm\u00e1 fo\u0165\u00e1ku v\u00a0m\u00e9 ruce a p\u0159edm\u011bt odhazuje, aby nebyl zdokumentov\u00e1n a mezi habersk\u00fdmi ku\u0159\u00e1ky znemo\u017en\u011bn.<\/p>\n Za Herceg Novi odbo\u010dujeme na park Prevlaka a do Chorvatska p\u0159ej\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme na mini p\u0159echodu Vitaljina. Celn\u00edky ru\u0161\u00edme od karet, vypad\u00e1 to, \u017ee jsme tu dneska asi tak t\u0159et\u00ed z\u00e1kazn\u00edci. Uprav\u00ed si \u010dapky, p\u0159\u00edsn\u011b n\u00e1m zkontroluj\u00ed pasy, odm\u00e1vnou n\u00e1s a honem si \u010dapky zase sund\u00e1vaj\u00ed a vrac\u00ed se ke sv\u00fdm sedmi\u010dk\u00e1m a es\u016fm.<\/p>\n Tudy je vjezd do Chorvatska velmi p\u011bkn\u00fd. N\u00edzk\u00e9 slunce zv\u00fdraz\u0148uje obrysy vojensk\u00e9 pevnosti Prevlaka a barv\u00ed do oran\u017eova vodu v\u00a0\u00fast\u00ed Kotorsk\u00e9ho z\u00e1livu. Par\u00e1da. Silnice zas takov\u00e1 par\u00e1da ale nen\u00ed. Po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b se n\u00e1m z\u00fa\u017eila, a m\u00edsty se ji dost rozpadal asfalt. \u00a0A je\u0161t\u011b se mi moc nel\u00edb\u00ed zna\u010dky: ,,pozor prasata\u201c. Tro\u0161i\u010dku zakufrujeme, \u00fazk\u00e1 silni\u010dka n\u00e1s dovede k\u00a0n\u011bjak\u00e9mu p\u00e1novi na dv\u016fr. P\u00e1n je o\u010dividn\u011b zvykl\u00fd, s\u00a0\u00fasm\u011bvem n\u00e1m ukazuje, \u017ee tudy cesta nevede.<\/p>\n Nakonec se do Molunatu p\u0159eci jen dostaneme a po spr\u0161e si sed\u00e1me k\u00a0Andrejkovi na terasu. Pan dom\u00e1c\u00ed se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1, sed\u00e1 si k\u00a0n\u00e1m a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee je mu s\u00a0n\u00e1mi moc dob\u0159e, \u017ee jsme takov\u00ed vesel\u00ed a \u017ee to m\u00e1 r\u00e1d. Uji\u0161\u0165ujeme ho, \u017ee um\u00edme b\u00fdt i veselej\u0161\u00ed a \u017ee kdybychom m\u011bli kytaru, tak by tu veselost teprve za\u017eil.<\/p>\n Ne\u017e se moc rozvesel\u00edme raki\u00ed a pelinkova\u010dem, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m Andrejko automaticky nos\u00ed rovnou ve fla\u0161k\u00e1ch, zaplat\u00edme (dohromady. To bude zase rozpo\u010d\u00edt\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed) a jdeme rad\u011bji sp\u00e1t.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Dnes ujeto 136 km.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Pond\u011bl\u00ed 13.9.2010<\/strong><\/p>\n Nikam nechv\u00e1t\u00e1me, trochu se cacht\u00e1me v\u00a0mo\u0159i, Muf chrn\u00ed, Honza krade v\u00a0kempu kiwi a n\u00e1sledn\u011b je za \u010din potrest\u00e1n. \u0160l\u00e1pne v\u00a0mo\u0159i na n\u011bco ostr\u00e9ho, co mu u\u0159\u00edzne kus palce, chce se rychle, hodn\u011b rychle tomu n\u011b\u010demu vyhnout a pokl\u00e1d\u00e1 sv\u00e9 velik\u00e9 t\u011blo s\u00a0po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fdm \u017euchnut\u00edm a \u017eblu\u0148knut\u00edm do vody a na kameny. Tak\u017ee m\u00e1, krom\u011b u\u0159\u00edzl\u00e9ho prstu cel\u00e9 t\u011blo kr\u00e1sn\u011b zbarven\u00e9 tu do \u010dervena, onde do fialova a p\u0159edpokl\u00e1d\u00e1m, \u017ee bude \u010dasem barvy m\u011bnit. Na doktora to pr\u00fd nen\u00ed. To je dob\u0159e.<\/p>\n Jedeme na v\u00fdlet. M\u00e1me nam\u00ed\u0159eno nad Cavtat, na Veli Do. M\u00e1m radost, \u017ee jsem uzounkou, tro\u0161ku rozbitou \u00a0silni\u010dku k\u00a0vyhl\u00eddce Sivi oko na poprv\u00e9 na\u0161la.<\/p>\n Z\u00a0betonov\u00e9 vyhl\u00eddky je fakt na co koukat. Pod n\u00e1mi Cavtat, p\u00e1r pidiostr\u016fvk\u016f, sem tam n\u011bjak\u00e1 lo\u010f, v\u00a0d\u00e1lce Dubrovn\u00edk a pak u\u017e do d\u00e1li jen a jen \u0161ir\u00e9 mo\u0159e. Jarku v\u00edc fascinuje \u010cilipi. Leti\u0161t\u011b. Letadla. Jen se j\u00ed nel\u00edb\u00ed, \u017ee zrovna \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 nestartuje, ani nep\u0159ist\u00e1v\u00e1.<\/p>\n Jsme vynad\u00edvan\u00ed a hladov\u00ed. Jedeme o p\u00e1r set metr\u016f d\u00e1l do hospody Konavoski komin. Pepa jede prvn\u00ed a je t\u00edm p\u00e1dem nejl\u00e9pe p\u0159iv\u00edt\u00e1n. Vzteklou besti\u00ed. B\u011b\u017e\u00edc\u00ed, \u0161t\u011bkaj\u00edc\u00ed, pokou\u0161ej\u00edc\u00ed se Pepu z\u00a0motorky sundat. Pepa u\u017e pr\u00fd c\u00edtil jej\u00ed hork\u00fd dech na sv\u00e9m hol\u00e9m l\u00fdtku. To m\u00e1 z\u00a0toho, \u017ee jezd\u00ed v\u00a0kra\u0165asech! To se mu jednou nevyplat\u00ed. Po zastaven\u00ed motorek se bestie zm\u011bnila na p\u0159\u00edv\u011btiv\u00e9ho, ohonem vrt\u00edc\u00edho pejs\u00e1nka, loud\u00edc\u00edho podrb\u00e1n\u00ed za u\u0161ima.<\/p>\n P\u0159i konzumace vynikaj\u00edc\u00edho j\u00eddla v\u00a0kr\u00e1sn\u00e9m, klidn\u00e9m prost\u0159ed\u00ed (jsme tu sami), p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dujeme Jarku, \u017ee vozembouchy jsou samoz\u0159ejmost\u00ed, k\u00a0motorka\u0159en\u00ed pat\u0159\u00edc\u00ed. Ka\u017ed\u00e9mu se to n\u011bkdy p\u0159ihod\u00ed. V\u00a0Portugalsku dokonce i Mufovi! Muf se u\u017e po n\u011bkolik\u00e1t\u00e9, p\u0159i vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed roz\u010diluje, \u017ee to tak nebylo, \u017ee to bylo \u00fapln\u011b jinak, \u017ee to nebylo v\u00a0Portugalsku, ale ve Francii, \u017ee nehodil vozembouch, ale \u017ee mu jen upadla motorka a on nad n\u00ed z\u016fstal rozkro\u010den st\u00e1t. Durd\u00ed se a tak mu je\u0161t\u011b pro zlep\u0161en\u00ed n\u00e1lady schov\u00e1v\u00e1m p\u0159ilbu.<\/p>\n Sj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme op\u011bt dol\u016f, ve Zverkovici se chyst\u00e1me najet na hlavn\u00ed a tu najednou nech\u00e1pu, co Pepa d\u011bl\u00e1. Naj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed trochu vlevo, pak si to asi rozmysl\u00ed, chce najet vpravo a \u00a0pak si to rozmysl\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b. Nepojede ani tam ani tam, prost\u011b to rad\u011bji polo\u017e\u00ed. Asi cht\u011bl Jarce dok\u00e1zat, \u017ee na\u0161e plky byly pravdiv\u00e9. Ka\u017ed\u00e9mu se to ob\u010das stane. Muf sed\u00ed na motorce, \u0159eht\u00e1 se na cel\u00e9 kolo a my ostatn\u00ed jdeme rad\u011bji zvedat t\u011b\u017ekou eFJ\u00e9Ru. Je po\u0161ramocen\u00e1 jen tak malinko, aby se ne\u0159eklo. Pepa m\u00e1 po\u0161ramocen\u00e9 kol\u00ednko, aby se \u0159eklo. To m\u00e1 z\u00a0toho je\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed v\u00a0kra\u0165asech! To se mu jednou nevyplat\u00ed.\u00a0 Ani Pepa, ani motorka nejsou po\u0161ramoceni tak, aby se nedalo pokra\u010dovat, d\u00e1 se. Tak opou\u0161t\u00edme m\u00edsto \u010dinu, zapln\u011bn\u00e9 \u010dumily a jedeme do Dubrovn\u00edku k\u00a0na\u0161emu osobn\u00edmu vulkaniz\u00e9rovi.<\/p>\n Vyu\u017eili jsme ho u\u017e v\u00edckr\u00e1t, dnes to m\u00e1 v\u00a0\u00famyslu Muf. Veze si z\u00a0\u010cech gumy, \u017ee pr\u00fd si je tu nech\u00e1 vym\u011bnit. Nema problema. Vlastn\u011b ma problema. Mus\u00ed si kola s\u00e1m vyndat a pt\u00e1 se n\u00e1s, zda n\u011bkdo nev\u00edme, jak se na jeho sk\u016ftru vyndav\u00e1 zadn\u00ed kolo. Nev\u00edme a tu\u0161\u00edme, \u017ee to bude z\u00e1bavn\u00e1 historka. Muf se n\u00e1s sna\u017e\u00ed p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dit, a\u0165 ho tu nech\u00e1me a jedeme do Dubrovn\u00edku sami. Kdepak! O tohle nem\u016f\u017eeme p\u0159ij\u00edt! A dob\u0159e d\u011bl\u00e1me. P\u0159i prvn\u00edm pokusu Muf od\u0161rouboval jak\u00fdsi \u0161roubek, o kter\u00e9m si myslel, \u017ee dr\u017e\u00ed plast. Ne! Dr\u017eel olej z\u00a0vari\u00e1toru. Te\u010f u\u017e ho nedr\u017e\u00ed. \u0160roubek i olej le\u017e\u00ed na podlaze. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 to vesele. Muf se pot\u00ed, hek\u00e1, p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00ed a vulkaniz\u00e9r mu tak z\u00a0p\u016flmetrov\u00e9 vzd\u00e1lenosti \u010dad\u00ed pod nos. Nesm\u00edrn\u011b se bav\u00edm. Pepa p\u016fj\u010duje za\u0161m\u00edrovan\u00e9mu, upocen\u00e9mu Mufovi m\u016fj hodob\u00f3\u017eov\u00fd ru\u010dn\u00edk, Muf si s\u00a0gustem \u0161pinavou rukou ot\u00edr\u00e1 pot z\u00a0\u010dela a se \u0161kodolib\u00fdm \u0161kleben\u00edm mi \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m dobrou aviv\u00e1\u017e.<\/p>\n Po hodin\u011b p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161len\u00ed a pr\u00e1ce je hotovo.\u00a0 Muf tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee mu v\u0161echen olej nevytekl, tak\u017ee m\u016f\u017eeme jet.<\/p>\n V\u00a0Dubrovn\u00edku se trochu mot\u00e1me a hled\u00e1me plac na zaparkov\u00e1n\u00ed \u010dty\u0159 motorek a jednoho auta. Necht\u011bla bych to hledat uprost\u0159ed sez\u00f3ny. I te\u010f n\u00e1m to d\u00e1 trochu pr\u00e1ce, nakonec ale parkujeme, d\u00e1v\u00e1me motoboty Honzovi do auta, a\u0165 si pak u\u017eije a jdeme nav\u0161t\u00edvit sv\u011btozn\u00e1mou perlu Jadranu.<\/p>\n Co napsat o Dubrovn\u00edku? Ono by se toho dalo, ale v\u0161e u\u017e bylo naps\u00e1no nes\u010detn\u011bkr\u00e1t.<\/p>\n Tak tedy vch\u00e1z\u00edme branou na \u0161irok\u00fd bulv\u00e1r, sna\u017e\u00edme se neuklouznout po dl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed vybl\u00fdskan\u00e9m statis\u00edci bot turist\u016f a jdeme na zmrzlinu. Ob\u0159\u00ed a v\u00fdbornou.\u00a0\u00a0 Hradby za 70KN na osobu zam\u00edt\u00e1me a tak jen tak bloud\u00edme dubrovnick\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami. M\u00e1m r\u00e1da klikat\u00e9 uli\u010dky chorvatsk\u00fdch m\u011bste\u010dek. Dubrovn\u00edk je jin\u00fd. Tohle m\u011bsto stav\u011bl architekt s\u00a0prav\u00edtkem v\u00a0ruce. Je to tu takov\u00e9 stroze geometrick\u00e9. Ale i tak maj\u00ed \u00fazk\u00e9 uli\u010dky skv\u011blou atmosf\u00e9ru. V\u00a0jedn\u00e9 si sed\u00e1me na n\u011bjak\u00e9 pit\u00ed a k\u00e1vu. Jdu si odsko\u010dit a chvilku p\u00e1tr\u00e1m po d\u00e1msk\u00fdch z\u00e1chodk\u00e1ch. N\u011bjak nem\u016f\u017eu v\u011b\u0159it tomu,\u00a0\u00a0 \u017ee pro d\u00e1my je ur\u010den\u00e1 ta m\u00edstnost za z\u00e1chodky p\u00e1nsk\u00fdmi. Ale je tomu tak. A to je\u0161t\u011b ty prvn\u00ed dve\u0159e nejdou zamknout. \u010c\u016fr\u00e1m hrozn\u011b rychle, abych to stihla d\u0159\u00edv, ne\u017e si p\u0159ijde ulevit n\u011bjak\u00fd p\u00e1n.<\/p>\n Tro\u0161i\u010dku se poztr\u00e1c\u00edme, Muf mi kupuje n\u00e1lepku a vyb\u00edr\u00e1 cestu k\u00a0p\u0159\u00edstavi\u0161ti. Do schod\u016f. Nech\u00e1pu. Dobrovoln\u011b se zad\u00fdch\u00e1v\u00e1, abychom za chv\u00edli zas n\u011bkde sestupovali k\u00a0mo\u0159i.<\/p>\n \u00a0V\u00a0p\u0159\u00edstavi\u0161ti sledujeme svatbu na lodi a vyhl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme kali\u0161\u0165\u00e1ky. Nakonec se nach\u00e1z\u00edme a\u017e u motorek.<\/p>\n Cesta zp\u011bt je p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1, tro\u0161i\u010dku kocha\u010dka. S\u00a0Mufem jsme se tak n\u011bjak utrhli, dorazili do Molunatu d\u0159\u00edv a pak se divili, \u017ee nedorazil Pepa. Lubo\u0161 pov\u00eddal, \u017ee n\u011bkde odbo\u010dil doprava a Lubo\u0161ovi uk\u00e1zal, \u017ee m\u00e1 jet d\u00e1l. Vydedukovala jsem, \u017ee jel do Cavtatu pro noviny. Ano, ve\u010der si pro\u010d\u00edtal noviny \u010desk\u00e9 i chorvatsk\u00e9 a dokonce se vytahoval, \u017ee pr\u00fd vylu\u0161til k\u0159\u00ed\u017eovku v\u00a0chorvat\u0161tin\u011b.<\/p>\n Andrejko n\u00e1s v\u00edta se starostliv\u00fdm v\u00fdrazem. Pr\u00fd n\u00e1s vid\u011bl u vulkaniz\u00e9ra a ptal se, zda je v\u0161e v\u00a0po\u0159\u00e1dku. S \u00a0v\u00fdrazem \u0161ibalsk\u00fdm \u00a0m\u011b chyt\u00e1 za ruku a se slovy: ,,poj\u010f se pod\u00edvat, co jsem koupil!\u201c m\u011b t\u00e1hne dovnit\u0159. Kytaru. Koupil kytaru! Hrozn\u011b se checht\u00e1m a vol\u00e1m Lubo\u0161e, aby se \u0161el pod\u00edvat, co ho ve\u010der\u00a0 \u010dek\u00e1. Lubo\u0161 bere n\u00e1stroj nev\u011b\u0159\u00edcn\u011b do ruky, se slovy: ,,no ty woe, to je n\u011bco, j\u00e1 m\u00e1m v\u00a0Chorvatsku svoji kytaru!\u201c\u00a0 a lad\u00ed.<\/p>\n Ve\u010der n\u00e1m Andrejko serv\u00edruje chorvatskou specialitu. V\u010dera jsme se ho ptali, co je to brudet? V\u00a0pr\u016fvodc\u00edch se o n\u011bm zmi\u0148uj\u00ed, coby o tradi\u010dn\u00edm j\u00eddle, ale je\u0161t\u011b jsme na n\u011bj nikde nenarazili. Andrejko n\u00e1m vysv\u011btlil, \u017ee pr\u00fd ani nemohli. Je to prav\u00e1 chorvatsk\u00e1 dom\u00e1c\u00ed kuchyn\u011b, kter\u00e1 se v\u011bt\u0161inou v\u00a0restaurac\u00edch nepod\u00e1v\u00e1. Jde o takov\u00fd ryb\u00ed gul\u00e1\u0161, kter\u00fd se va\u0159\u00ed z\u00a0n\u011bkolika druh\u016f ryb n\u011bkolik hodin.<\/p>\n A tak n\u00e1m ho te\u010f serv\u00edroval. Va\u0159il ho pr\u00fd 5 hodin. No va\u0159il. Ono se to sp\u00ed\u0161 tak pomalou\u010dku klohn\u00ed, neproch\u00e1z\u00ed to varem a ryby z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed vcelku, nerozpadl\u00e9, vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed. Vrazil n\u00e1m tam pr\u00fd grdobinu, ra\u017eu, \u0161krpinu (tu m\u016f\u017eu, tu m\u00e1m r\u00e1da, na tu m\u00e1m veselou vzpom\u00ednku z\u00a0jara), tabinju, pic,\u00a0 barbun a n\u011bjakou tu zeleninu.<\/p>\n A vrazil to tam moc dob\u0159e. Brudet zabodoval. Vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed! D\u011blaj\u00ed se n\u00e1m boule za u\u0161ima a Mufovi po cel\u00e9m t\u011ble. Cpe do sebe brudetovou om\u00e1\u010dku s\u00a0chlebem a j\u00e1 ho znepokojen\u011b pozoruju. Ob\u00e1v\u00e1m se, \u017ee praskne a my budeme muset star\u00fdm Muf\u016fm p\u0159edat jeho praskl\u00e9 t\u011blo. P\u0159ejedli jsme se zase v\u0161ichni. Tohle se ned\u00e1 vydr\u017eet.<\/p>\n \u00a0Lubo\u0161 bere do ruky sladk\u00e9 d\u0159evo a Molunatem zn\u00ed Samson, K\u0159es\u0165an a podobn\u00ed.\u00a0 Pan \u0161\u00e9f si k\u00a0n\u00e1m zase spokojen\u011b sed\u00e1 a tro\u0161ku s\u00a0nads\u00e1zkou pl\u00e1nujeme, \u017ee by tu byl moc hezk\u00fd Silvestr s\u00a0celou skupinou. Nev\u00e1h\u00e1m, pos\u00edl\u00e1m Lucce SMS s\u00a0pokyny a ona se chyt\u00e1, p\u0159ed\u00e1v\u00e1 zpr\u00e1vu d\u00e1l, zaji\u0161\u0165uje muzikanty a odvoz. No asi by to klaplo, jen je n\u011bjak m\u00e1lo dovolen\u00e9. Lucka je o\u010dividn\u011b zklaman\u00e1, \u017ee \u0161lo tak n\u011bjak o recesi. Muzikanti se pr\u00fd chytili a za\u010dali se t\u011b\u0161it.<\/p>\n Mezi t\u00edm skl\u00edz\u00ed Lubo\u0161 potlesk od vedle sed\u00edc\u00edch Francouz\u016f, jen je divn\u00e9, \u017ee se rychle zvedaj\u00ed a odch\u00e1z\u00ed J<\/span> .<\/p>\n Lubo\u0161 si st\u011b\u017euje, \u017ee nezn\u00e1 texty, pr\u00fd m\u00e1 slova utopen\u00e1 v\u00a0chlastu.<\/p>\n Po slo\u017een\u00ed pen\u011bz na \u00fatratu n\u00e1m n\u011bjak p\u0159eb\u00fdv\u00e1 100KN, m\u00e1m dojem, \u017ee je na \u010dase j\u00edt sp\u00e1t, r\u00e1no brzy st\u00e1v\u00e1me!<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Dnes ujeto 101km<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00dater\u00fd 14.9.2010<\/strong><\/p>\n R\u00e1no brzy st\u00e1v\u00e1me! V\u00a0p\u016fl sedm\u00e9. Dnes je den D. C\u00edl cesty. P\u0159ekro\u010d\u00edme hranice Alb\u00e1nie.<\/p>\n \u010cernohorsk\u00e9 hranice u\u017e proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme jako maz\u00e1ci, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd probl\u00e9m, nikoho nezaj\u00edm\u00e1 Pepy zelen\u00e1 karta.<\/p>\n V\u00a0Kotoru tankujeme a odbo\u010dujeme na Cetinje. \u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s p\u0159ejezd Lov\u010denu a t\u00edm i n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na Boku Kotorskou. Silnice je tro\u0161ku hor\u0161\u00ed, ne\u017e byla p\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety, kdy pat\u0159ila mezi 10 TOP evropsk\u00fdch motosilnic, ale je\u0161t\u011b po\u0159\u00e1d je na n\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00fd svezen\u00ed. Jen m\u00e1 motork\u00e1\u0159 tro\u0161ku pr\u00e1ci v\u011bnovat se zat\u00e1\u010dk\u00e1m a ne\u010du\u010det po\u0159\u00e1d dol\u016f, po st\u00e1le se m\u011bn\u00edc\u00edch v\u00fdhledech. \u00a0Muf stav\u00ed na focen\u00ed. Chv\u00e1l\u00edm ho, ale pak si uv\u011bdomuju, \u017ee v\u0161e je jinak. Nev\u0161\u00edmal si tak moc fotogenick\u00fdch v\u00fdhled\u016f, ale varovn\u00e9ho, sv\u00edt\u00edc\u00edho ,,V\u201c, na sv\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edstrojovce. \u0158\u00edk\u00e1m mu, \u017ee je to jasn\u00fd, to je ten jeho v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed vytekl\u00fd olej. Te\u010f mu to hl\u00e1s\u00ed: bacha nem\u00e1\u0161 Volej! Nev\u011b\u0159\u00ed mi a signalizaci si vysv\u011btluje: Volej do Hondy! Tak Volal a zjistil, \u017ee tam nem\u00e1 Volej. Ale \u017ee to pr\u00fd nevad\u00ed, \u017ee s\u00a0t\u00edm Alb\u00e1nii d\u00e1 J<\/span>.<\/p>\n \u00a0Lov\u010den p\u0159ej\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme, ani\u017e bychom stav\u011bli u mauzolea. Nem\u00e1me \u010das, m\u00ed\u0159\u00edme do Alb\u00e1nie. Za Lov\u010denem proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme Njegu\u0161e. Slovy Mufa: je to dysny lend! N\u011bkam se pod\u011bla ta star\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra, dnes je to tu samej autobus, hospoda a st\u00e1nek, v\u00a0kter\u00e9m se po tun\u00e1ch nakupuje prav\u00fd njegu\u0161sk\u00fd pr\u0161ut i sir.<\/p>\n Chyst\u00e1me se podjet Podgoricu, ale n\u011bjak n\u00e1s vcucla, tak jak to maj\u00ed velk\u00e1 m\u011bsta ve zvyku. V\u00a0Podgorici se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 kone\u010dn\u011b tro\u0161ku pr\u00e1t v\u00fdchod se z\u00e1padem. Vedle nov\u00fdch, na\u010dan\u010dan\u00fdch bar\u00e1k\u016f stoj\u00ed vybydlen\u00e9 panel\u00e1ky. Mezi modern\u00edmi auty, s\u00a0kdejakou vymo\u017eenost\u00ed se propl\u00e9taj\u00ed ko\u0148sk\u00e9 povozy. Vedle v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fdch ukazatel\u016f na Lov\u010den chyb\u00ed ukazatele na cokoliv jin\u00e9ho. Z\u00a0toho je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee zase bloud\u00edme. Mot\u00e1me se po hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b \u010cern\u00e9 Hory a nakonec n\u00e1s vymot\u00e1v\u00e1 Muf se svoji vrozenou inteligenc\u00ed a orienta\u010dn\u00edm smyslem. A dokonce n\u00e1s vymot\u00e1v\u00e1 spr\u00e1vn\u011b. V\u00a0Tuzi, na nadn\u00e1rodn\u00ed modern\u00ed benz\u00ednce kouk\u00e1me do mapy, zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee jedeme spr\u00e1vn\u011b a do Alb\u00e1nie to m\u00e1me coby kamenem dohodil.<\/p>\n Za Tiza se rapidn\u011b m\u011bn\u00ed silnice. \u010c\u00edm v\u00edc p\u0159ib\u00fdv\u00e1 star\u00fdch mercedes\u016f s\u00a0alb\u00e1nskou zna\u010dkou, t\u00edm v\u00edc p\u0159ib\u00fdv\u00e1 d\u011br a \u0161t\u011brku na \u00fazk\u00e9 silnici. Tohle je tah z\u00a0montenegersk\u00e9ho hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta do velk\u00e9ho m\u011bsta Sqader? Co n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 za hranicemi? Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1m m\u00edrn\u011b pochybovat, zda v\u0161echny ty zpr\u00e1vy, \u017ee dnes se Alb\u00e1nie projede na ces\u0165\u00e1k\u00e1ch bez probl\u00e9mu, byly pravdiv\u00e9. Jeden z\u00a0mercedes\u016f n\u011bjak ned\u00e1v\u00e1 na\u0161i pomalou j\u00edzdu a p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed n\u00e1s na m\u00edstech, kde se fakt p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bt ned\u00e1. Nevad\u00ed, v\u0161ak mi to zahamstnem a pust\u00edme ho p\u0159ed sebe.\u00a0 A kone\u010dn\u011b p\u0159echod Bo\u017eaj. Nen\u00ed n\u011bjak\u00fd mal\u00fd, zapomenut\u00fd, to ne, budovy velik\u00e9, modern\u00ed. Jen n\u00e1s matou kozy a psi motaj\u00edc\u00ed se tu na stran\u011b \u010dernohorsk\u00e9, tu na alb\u00e1nsk\u00e9.\u00a0 Atmosf\u00e9ra je tak n\u011bjak ospal\u00e1. Celn\u00edci maj\u00ed o\u010dividn\u011b svoji pr\u00e1ci r\u00e1di, tak si ji u\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed, protahuj\u00ed, nikam nechv\u00e1taj\u00ed. Tro\u0161ku je popo\u017eene n\u011bjak\u00fd m\u00edstn\u00ed mafi\u00e1n ve Volvu. Zablokovali ho turist\u00e9 z\u00a0Francie a t\u00edm tro\u0161ku vyhr\u00e1li. Je t\u0159eba je rychle odbavit, aby nep\u0159ek\u00e1\u017eeli. My to \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed nem\u00e1me a tak \u010dek\u00e1me, \u010dek\u00e1me, \u010dek\u00e1me. A vedle n\u00e1s rakousk\u00fd autobus. Babky z\u00a0V\u00eddn\u011b, \u010di Lince, \u010di odkud na n\u00e1s pomrk\u00e1vaj\u00ed a m\u00e1vaj\u00ed n\u00e1m. Asi n\u00e1s berou jako krajany, no bodej\u010f by ne.<\/p>\n Kontrolu projedeme v\u00a0pohod\u011b a zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee se s\u00a0neplatnou zelenou kartou d\u00e1 projet cel\u00e1 Evropa. A pak\u2026.. a pak jsme v\u00a0Alb\u00e1nii. Skon\u010dil asfalt, nastoupila \u0161otolina. \u017de j\u00e1 osel uv\u011b\u0159ila zpr\u00e1v\u00e1m, \u017ee u\u017e tomu tak nen\u00ed. R\u00e1da bych si prohl\u00ed\u017eela n\u00e1dhern\u00e9, vz\u00e1cn\u00fdmi rostlinami zarostl\u00e9, spoustou pt\u00e1k\u016f obydlen\u00e9,\u00a0 Skadarsk\u00e9 jezero po prav\u00e9 ruce, ale m\u00edsto toho sleduju, kter\u00e1 d\u00edra je men\u0161\u00ed, kter\u00e1 v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed, kudy m\u00e1m jet. Nikdo z\u00a0n\u00e1s nevypad\u00e1 nad\u0161en\u011b. Stav\u00edme u prvn\u00ed zn\u00e1mky civilizace. M\u00e1 podobu ot\u00e1\u010dej\u00edc\u00edho se berana na ro\u017eni. No je tohle mo\u017en\u00fd?! Tahle dovolen\u00e1 je ve znamen\u00ed roze\u017eranosti!\u00a0 \u010c\u00ed\u0161n\u00edk drob\u00e1tko bojuje s\u00a0na\u0161\u00ed ob\u0159\u00ed objedn\u00e1vkou pit\u00ed a za chvilku n\u00e1m p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed objednan\u00e9 j\u00eddlo. V\u0161ichni jsme si dali toho pe\u010d\u00edc\u00edho se ber\u00e1nka. Op\u011bt vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed a op\u011bt ob\u0159\u00ed porce. Zase se p\u0159ecp\u00e1v\u00e1me. A tentokr\u00e1t hodn\u011b lacino. Za po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd kus berana, ve\u0161ker\u00e9 pit\u00ed, jablko na rozlou\u010denou plat\u00edme necel\u00fdch 9 Eur na osobu.<\/p>\n \u00a0Cesta se m\u00edrn\u011b zhor\u0161uje. \u0160otolina je v\u00edc a v\u00edc rozbit\u00e1, vedle n\u00ed je ve stavb\u011b nov\u00e1 silnice. Auta n\u00e1s p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00ed stavebn\u00edm makadamem a j\u00e1 ti\u0161e douf\u00e1m, \u017ee tenhle pohled Jarka z\u00a0auta fot\u00ed. P\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do m\u011bsta neozna\u010den\u00e9ho cedul\u00ed, dle mapy by m\u011blo j\u00edt o Koplik. P\u0159edpokl\u00e1dejme, \u017ee tomu tak je. Koplik n\u00e1s p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010duje, \u017ee jsme kone\u010dn\u011b opravdu na v\u00fdchod\u011b. Vybydlen\u00e9 domy v\u00edt\u011bz\u00ed nad t\u011bmi obyvateln\u00fdmi, odpadky kolem cesty nab\u00fdvaj\u00ed neb\u00fdval\u00fdch rozm\u011br\u016f, cyklist\u00e9 s\u00a0koly nalo\u017een\u00fdmi v\u0161\u00edm mo\u017en\u00fdm\u00a0 i nemo\u017en\u00fdm jsou kr\u00e1li silnic. V\u00a0dod\u00e1vce je tu p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017een\u00e1 kr\u00e1va, \u010di k\u016f\u0148, \u010di cokoliv jin\u00e9ho. Zastav\u00edme-li, z\u00a0d\u016fsledku podivn\u00e9 dopravn\u00ed situace, okoln\u00ed na n\u00e1s pok\u0159ikuj\u00ed a ptaj\u00ed se odkud jedeme. Tak tohle se mi l\u00edb\u00ed. \u00da\u017easn\u00fd provoz, m\u00e1m dojem, \u017ee kdo se m\u00ed\u0148 boj\u00ed, m\u00e1 p\u0159ednost.\u00a0 Dalo by se na to za chv\u00edli zvyknout Tohle m\u00e1 tu spr\u00e1vnou balk\u00e1nskou atmosf\u00e9ru. L\u00edb\u00ed se mi tu. P\u0159esto jsem m\u00edrn\u011b vym\u011bkla. Na Mufovo ot\u00e1zku, zda jedeme d\u00e1l, \u010di to to\u010d\u00edme, odpov\u00edd\u00e1m, \u017ee jsem pro oto\u010den\u00ed. Tahle cesta je v\u00a0map\u011b \u010derven\u00e1, kde\u017eto ta, po kter\u00e9 pl\u00e1nujeme n\u00e1vrat, \u017elut\u00e1. Domlouv\u00e1me, \u017ee po\u010dk\u00e1me a uvid\u00edme, bude-li se cesta zhor\u0161ovat oto\u010d\u00edme, zat\u00edm to je docela dobr\u00e9.\u00a0 A s\u00a0t\u00edm vj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Sqadaru. Hl\u00e1s\u00e1 to jen takov\u00e1 star\u00e1, unaven\u00e1, plechov\u00e1 cedule. Muf si ji ani nev\u0161iml a ptal se, kde to jsme. Tady n\u00e1s, krom\u011b rozbit\u00fdch panel\u00e1k\u016f a odpadk\u016f zar\u00e1\u017e\u00ed i hrozn\u00fd smrad. Takov\u00fd ten \u0161pinav\u00fd, ned\u00fdchateln\u00fd, skoro viditeln\u00fd. Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme velk\u00e9 m\u011bsto a hled\u00e1me v\u00fdjezd na p\u0159echod Murigan. A tu\u2026 a tu opou\u0161t\u00edme zanedbanou \u010d\u00e1st m\u011bsta, naj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme na \u010dty\u0159proudovou kr\u00e1snou silnici a kolem nov\u00fdch dom\u016f si to mast\u00edme d\u00e1l. Tak tohle jsou ty paradoxy dne\u0161n\u00edho v\u00fdchodu. No ale stejn\u011b se n\u00e1m n\u011bjak neda\u0159\u00ed naj\u00edt na\u0161\u00ed odbo\u010dku. Nejprve se pt\u00e1me n\u011bjak\u00fdch mlad\u00fdch kluk\u016f, ale z\u00a0t\u011bch se vyklubou Italov\u00e9 v\u011bdouc\u00ed \u00a0v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed prd, ne\u017e my.\u00a0 A pak nar\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na m\u00edst\u0148\u00e1ky. Mohli se ochotou p\u0159etrhnout. Jeden z\u00a0nich vzal sv\u016fj mercedes a vyvedl n\u00e1s na spr\u00e1vnou v\u00fdpadovku. \u00a0Zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed je, \u017ee tu nic jin\u00e9ho, ne\u017e ony star\u00e9 mercedesy nejezd\u00ed. Bu\u010f tu maj\u00ed n\u011bkde hn\u00edzdo, nebo sem byla dod\u00e1na n\u011bjak\u00e1 lacin\u00e1 dod\u00e1vka, a nebo se, dle zl\u00fdch jazyk\u016f, m\u00edstn\u00ed zlod\u011bji specializovali na tato vozidla.<\/p>\n V\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b n\u00e1m p\u00e1n z\u00a0mercedesu pomohl. Navedl n\u00e1s na most, kter\u00fd vypadal velice pofid\u00e9rn\u011b.<\/p>\n P\u0159i jeho p\u0159ejezdu jsem\u00a0 m\u011bla velikou chu\u0165 zav\u0159\u00edt o\u010di. Asi by mi to nepomohlo, tak je nech\u00e1v\u00e1m otev\u0159en\u00e9. A ob\u00e1v\u00e1m se, co\u017ee n\u00e1s to za nestabiln\u00edm mostem \u010dek\u00e1. N\u011bjak\u00e1 \u017elut\u00e1, vedlej\u0161\u00ed, no doufejme, \u017ee bude pr\u016fjezdn\u00e1. Je, a nejen to, dokonce je pr\u016fjezdn\u00e1 naprosto skv\u011ble. Nov\u00fd asfalt, par\u00e1da. Alb\u00e1nci sem pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b l\u00e1kaj\u00ed turisty ji\u017en\u00ed cestou, okolo mo\u0159e. \u017dlut\u00e1 je dobr\u00e1!\u00a0 Tak tudy cesta vede!<\/p>\n Na hranic\u00edch jsme byli nahn\u00e1ni na \u00fazk\u00fd pr\u016fchod pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed. Nevad\u00ed, alespo\u0148 p\u0159edjedeme kolonu mercedes\u016f. U ok\u00fdnka m\u011b tro\u0161ku rozesm\u00edv\u00e1 celn\u00edk, kter\u00fd m\u00e1 z\u00a0po\u010d\u00edta\u010de ve\u0161ker\u00e9 \u00fadaje o m\u00e9 osob\u011b.<\/p>\n \u0158\u00edk\u00e1 n\u011bco jako ,,Puff, Puff\u201c a sm\u011bje se. Asi to alb\u00e1nsky n\u011bco znamen\u00e1. Nev\u00edm co, sm\u011bju se s\u00a0n\u00edm a hranice p\u0159ej\u00ed\u017ed\u00edm. Vzhledem k\u00a0tomu, \u017ee zase pa\u0161ujeme cigarety, pova\u017euju pr\u016fjezd za skv\u011ble bezprobl\u00e9mov\u00fd.<\/p>\n N\u00e1sleduje p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 silni\u010dka na Bar.<\/p>\n U Kotoru neobj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme z\u00e1toku, ale kupujeme si l\u00edstky na trajekt. Moto za 1,50 Eur a auto za 4 Eur. Trajekt n\u00e1m u\u0161et\u0159\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e1 hodinu \u010dasu.<\/p>\n Hranice proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme zase v\u00a0pohod\u011b a Lubo\u0161 v\u00a0Molunatu usoudil, \u017ee u\u017e je dlouho nuda, tak vyrobil takov\u00fd mal\u00fd polovozembouch. \u00a0Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed \u0161li okolo n\u011bjac\u00ed m\u00edst\u0148\u00e1ci a zachr\u00e1nili ho p\u0159ed mezin\u00e1rodn\u00ed ostudou.<\/p>\n Andrejko n\u00e1m na dne\u0161ek vytvo\u0159il hrnec mu\u0161l\u00ed. Je to um\u011blec. Op\u011bt jsme se p\u0159ejedli.<\/p>\n Muf oznamuje, \u017ee z\u00edtra odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed. Pepa to komentuje takto:\u00a0 Muf p\u0159ijel pozd\u011b. Nechal tu star\u00fd gumy. Se\u017eral n\u00e1m brudet. Nekoupil si n\u00e1lepku v\u00a0Alb\u00e1nii. A p\u0159ed\u010dasn\u011b odjel. Muf m\u00e1 velk\u00e9 v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 m\u00ednus!<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Dnes ujeto 380 km<\/p>[Not a valid template] St\u0159eda 15.9.2010<\/strong><\/p>\n Muf opravdu odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed. Vlastn\u011b ho nesly\u0161\u00edm. Sly\u0161\u00edm popel\u00e1\u0159e, ale Pepa \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee ten rachot nebyli popel\u00e1\u0159i, ale muf\u00ed sk\u016ftr bez oleje.<\/p>\n Odjel a ani mi nic na motorce neprovedl. Smutn\u00e9 A pak jen n\u011bjak\u00e1 nen\u00e1padit\u00e1 v\u00e1le\u010dka u mo\u0159e, prolo\u017een\u00e1 velice n\u00e1padit\u00fdm posezen\u00edm s\u00a0mast\u0148\u00e1ky u lahv\u00e1\u010d\u016f. Jdu se rad\u011bji proj\u00edt. Kousek do soused\u00edc\u00ed z\u00e1toky ke skal\u00e1m. Je tu kr\u00e1sn\u011b. Je tu tak n\u011bjak divoce kr\u00e1sn\u011b.\u00a0 Kr\u00e1sn\u00fd, divok\u00fd klid. Tohle m\u00edsto m\u00e1 n\u011bjakou z\u00e1zra\u010dnou s\u00edlu. Nas\u00e1v\u00e1m ji, co to jde a nerada se vrac\u00edm k\u00a0ostatn\u00edm. Ve\u010der je ve\u010derem vesel\u00fdm, tak n\u011bjak lou\u010d\u00edc\u00edm. Z\u00edtra to ot\u00e1\u010d\u00edme na sever, tak\u017ee vlastn\u011b dom\u016f.<\/p>\n V\u00a018,50 hl\u00e1s\u00ed Muf p\u0159\u00edjezd do Hab\u0159\u00ed .\u00a0 Je to cvok, dal to za 13 hodin.<\/p>\n Lubo\u0161 se op\u011bt star\u00e1 o z\u00e1bavu pro n\u00e1s i okoln\u00ed stoly. U vedlej\u0161\u00edho, anglicky mluv\u00edc\u00edho , n\u00e1s udivuje pozp\u011bvuj\u00edc\u00ed si \u017eena.\u00a0 O\u010dividn\u011b p\u00edsni\u010dky zn\u00e1. P\u0159i odchodu zdrav\u00ed a d\u011bkuje polsky. Mezin\u00e1rodn\u00ed ve\u010der. Andrejko n\u00e1s zase p\u0159ecp\u00e1v\u00e1 a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee se na n\u00e1s taky p\u0159ijede pod\u00edvat. Je srde\u010dn\u011b zv\u00e1n.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Dnes jsem ujela 56km<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u010ctvrtek 16.9.2010<\/strong><\/p>\n Odjezd napl\u00e1nov\u00e1n na 8,\u00b0\u00b0 , pl\u00e1n: Mostar, Krka, Plitvice.<\/p>\n Navr\u00e1tilovi a Honza opravdu vyr\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed, nezastav\u00ed je ani SMS od Mufa: ,,Z\u016fsta\u0148te co nejd\u00e9le dole a v\u00a0sobotu zarazte n\u011bkde u Zadaru, dom\u016f je\u010fte a\u017e v\u00a0ned\u011bli, jinak vl\u00edtnete do potopy\u201c . My nevyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme, j\u00e1 vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edm zp\u011bt do postele. V\u00a0noci m\u011b chytil \u017elu\u010dn\u00edk a rozhodl se, \u017ee tu pobudeme. Prvn\u011b v\u00a0Chorvatsku dob\u0159e pozn\u00e1v\u00e1m vnit\u0159ek penzionu. Hlavn\u011b z\u00e1chod.\u00a0 Netrp\u00edm na to, ale ani se nediv\u00edm. To dennodenn\u00ed p\u0159ej\u00edd\u00e1n\u00ed se muselo projevit. Odjezd odkl\u00e1d\u00e1me o dv\u011b hodiny a pot\u00e9\u00a0 o den.<\/p>\n Pepa mi jede do Cavtatu pro ,,kapi na zlunik\u201c a pak se proch\u00e1z\u00ed po Molunatu. Nar\u00e1\u017e\u00ed na dva bud\u011bji\u010d\u00e1ky na Hornetech .\u00a0<\/p>\n Je mi d\u011bsiv\u011b a Andrejko, jeho bratr a zam\u011bstnanci se mnou maj\u00ed \u00fa\u017easnou \u00fa\u010dast. Ope\u010dov\u00e1vaj\u00ed mne \u010derstv\u00fdm, m\u00e1tov\u00fdm \u010dajem , po\u0159\u00e1d se Pepy ptaj\u00ed, jak mi je a pozdravuj\u00ed mne. Tady by se to kr\u00e1sn\u011b marodilo, kdyby jednoho nel\u00e1kaly zvuky mo\u0159e, slune\u010dn\u00ed paprsky a motorka pod okny. A taky m\u011b \u0161tve ko\u010dka, lezouc\u00ed mi oknem do pokoje a n\u00e1sledn\u011b do postele.<\/p>\n Muf p\u00ed\u0161e, \u017ee m\u00e1me celn\u00edk\u016fm \u00a0a pop\u0159\u00edpad\u011b policajt\u016fm uk\u00e1zat ob\u010danku a n\u00e9 pas. To vypad\u00e1 na veselou historku.<\/p>\n Ve\u010der se kone\u010dn\u011b tro\u0161ku rozkouk\u00e1m a trouf\u00e1m si mezi lidi. Na ve\u010de\u0159i si bohu\u017eel netrouf\u00e1m.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Neujeto ani \u0147. Teda Pepa 56km do l\u00e9k\u00e1rny.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n P\u00e1tek 17.9.2010<\/strong><\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Je mi docela fajn a popojela bych. Pepovi se poflakov\u00e1n\u00ed \u00a0zal\u00edbilo. Op\u011bt m\u011bn\u00edme pl\u00e1n. Poslechneme Mufa. Z\u016fstaneme, z\u00edtra popojedeme k\u00a0Zadaru. V\u00a0ned\u011bli dom\u016f.<\/p>\n U\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m si pr\u00e1zdnou pl\u00e1\u017e, docela tepl\u00fd mo\u0159e bez turist\u016f\u00a0 a tro\u0161ku m\u011b p\u0159ekvapuje, \u017ee mi takov\u00e9hle nicned\u011bl\u00e1n\u00ed vyhovuje. Z\u00a0rozj\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed m\u011b ru\u0161\u00ed k\u0159ik. Na skal\u00e1ch p\u00e1r lid\u00ed lov\u00ed, p\u016fl\u00ed a poj\u00edd\u00e1 je\u017eky. Nad nimi stoj\u00ed jak\u00fdsi k\u0159i\u010d\u00edc\u00ed p\u00e1n v\u00a0mont\u00e9rk\u00e1ch, rozhazuje rukama a kdybych sed\u011bla bl\u00ed\u017e, tak bych ur\u010dit\u011b vid\u011bla, \u017ee mu naskakuj\u00ed roz\u010d\u00edlen\u00edm \u017e\u00edly. Parti\u010dka se nenech\u00e1 zahambit, pok\u0159ikuje takt\u00e9\u017e, p\u011bsti\u010dky l\u00edtaj\u00ed, vypad\u00e1 to na bitku. Roz\u010d\u00edlen\u00fd p\u00e1n, s\u00a0nad\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm a vyk\u0159ikov\u00e1n\u00edm odch\u00e1z\u00ed a parti\u010dka pln\u00ed igelitky.<\/p>\n Andrejko n\u00e1m pozd\u011bji vysv\u011btlil, \u017ee je\u017eci jedl\u00ed jsou, ale jen n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed a t\u011bch tu moc nen\u00ed. Pr\u00fd to tu drancuj\u00ed hlavn\u011b Italov\u00e9 a m\u00edstn\u00ed to d\u011bsn\u011b \u0161tve.<\/p>\n \u00a0Posezen\u00ed p\u0159ed kr\u00e1mkem n\u00e1m zpest\u0159uje pod\u00edvan\u00e1 na z\u00e1sobov\u00e1n\u00ed. Z\u00e1sobova\u010di Pat a Mat pracuj\u00ed, k\u00a0na\u0161\u00ed radosti, s\u00a0plo\u0161inou asi poprv\u00e9. Zp\u016fsobuj\u00ed v Molunatu dopravn\u00ed kolaps. B\u011bhem hodinov\u00e9ho skl\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed dvou palet zbo\u017e\u00ed se z\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00e9 strany na\u0161t\u00f3suj\u00ed asi t\u0159i auta. P\u0159ipad\u00e1m si jako v\u00a0Hab\u0159\u00ed. Dva mlad\u00ed a neklidn\u00ed na fichtlech se sna\u017e\u00ed projet. Prvn\u00ed d\u0159e n\u00e1kla\u010f\u00e1k, s\u00a0vesel\u00fdm \u00fasm\u011bvem ukazuje druh\u00e9mu, \u017ee m\u00e1 jet taky. Ten se tam ale \u0161prajcuje. \u0158idi\u010d\u016fm dod\u00e1vky je to o\u010dividn\u011b fuk.<\/p>\n Ve\u010der si kone\u010dn\u011b trouf\u00e1m na rybu. Andrejko mi p\u0159ipravuje dietn\u011b ra\u017eu, ale i tak ji nezdol\u00e1v\u00e1m. Pepa 2x gambori zdol\u00e1v\u00e1 skv\u011ble. A te\u010f u\u017e se s\u00a0dom\u00e1c\u00edmi opravdu lou\u010d\u00edme a jdeme pakovat.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Sobota 18.9.2010<\/strong><\/p>\n Do ticha mal\u00e9 vesni\u010dky zn\u00ed start\u00e9ry na\u0161ich stroj\u016f, v\u00a0p\u011bt r\u00e1no, \u00a0jako v\u00fdbuch. Rad\u011bji rychle miz\u00edme do tmy, abychom m\u00edstn\u00ed moc nebudili.\u00a0 J\u00edzda po tm\u011b nen\u00ed m\u00e9 hoby. A tady m\u011b je\u0161t\u011b trochu ru\u0161\u00ed \u0161t\u011brk, kter\u00fd nevid\u00edm a zna\u010dky: ,,pozor prasata\u201c a Andrejkovo uji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, \u017ee potkat tu divo\u010d\u00e1ka na silnici je docela b\u011b\u017en\u00e9. Abych toho rad\u011bji moc nevid\u011bla, tak chyt\u00e1m na plexi m\u016fru. \u00a0V\u00a0\u010cilipi se tro\u0161ku rozj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme, miz\u00ed \u0161t\u011brk i prase\u010d\u00ed cedule. Jede se n\u00e1dhern\u011b. U Dubrovn\u00edku m\u00e1m co d\u011blat, v\u011bnovat se \u0159\u00edzen\u00ed a nez\u00edrat na osv\u011btlenou perlu Jadranu. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00fd provoz a p\u0159edpoklad absence m\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00edch policajt\u016f n\u00e1m dovoluje tro\u0161ku za to vz\u00edt. Tak si zat\u00e1\u010dky Jadransk\u00e9 magistr\u00e1ly u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me na sto procent. Sv\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed vytahuje z\u00a0mo\u0159e z\u00e1toky ostrov\u016f, lodi\u010dky ryb\u00e1\u0159\u016f, l\u00e9taj\u00edc\u00ed racky a m\u011b se odtud zase v\u016fbec nechce. U Neretvy je taky je\u0161t\u011b pusto. Jen u jednoho st\u00e1nku je babka trp\u00edc\u00ed nespavost\u00ed. Je\u0161t\u011b vybaluje a my u ni nakupujeme jako prvn\u00ed.\u00a0 Za Neretvou zam\u00e1v\u00e1me mo\u0159i a vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme novou silnic\u00ed do vnitrozem\u00ed.<\/p>\n Po 180ti kilometrech naj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme v\u00a0Ra\u010dce na d\u00e1lnici. Pl\u00e1n zn\u00ed jasn\u011b: Zadar a dle po\u010das\u00ed bu\u010f zabivakov\u00e1n\u00ed, jak radil Muf, \u010di j\u00edzda d\u00e1l, kam n\u00e1m to \u010das a\u00a0 p\u0159edpokl\u00e1dan\u00fd d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 dovol\u00ed. Zat\u00edm je kr\u00e1sn\u011b. No, kr\u00e1sn\u011b asi nen\u00ed to prav\u00e9 slovo, ale prost\u011b to zat\u00edm jde. \u00a0<\/p>\n Polyk\u00e1me d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00ed kilometry a p\u0159ed Zadarem se nad n\u00e1mi stahuj\u00ed mraky. Muf m\u011bl pravdu. Vj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do de\u0161t\u011b, jako by se nechumelilo (no, ono se nechumel\u00ed, ono jen pr\u0161\u00ed). Kdesi p\u0159ed Zagrebem se na pump\u011b ( 1,20 E) domlouv\u00e1me, \u017ee prost\u011b pojedeme d\u00e1l, dokud to p\u016fjde. Cosi mi \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee te\u010f u\u017e je Pepa rozhodnut\u00fd dojet a\u017e dom\u016f. \u017de by \u017eivotn\u00ed zku\u0161enosti?<\/p>\n Za \u00fasek Rav\u010da \u2013 Zagreb plat\u00edme 112 KN za moto.<\/p>\n Cesta d\u00e1l se m\u011bn\u00ed v\u00a0jezero. Bohud\u00edk ne na silnici, ale v\u0161ude okolo je vid\u011bt d\u016fsledek propr\u0161en\u00fdch, minul\u00fdch dn\u00ed.<\/p>\n \u00dasek Zagreb \u2013 hranice n\u00e1s stoj\u00ed 25 KN za moto a j\u00e1 uva\u017euju nad t\u00edm, pro\u010d lid\u00e9 nad\u00e1vaj\u00ed, \u017ee se za d\u00e1lnici v\u00a0Chorvatsku plat\u00ed astronomick\u00e9 ceny. \u00a0137 KN t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 od Dubrovn\u00edku a\u017e na hranice mi nep\u0159ijde a\u017e tak d\u011bsiv\u00fd.<\/p>\n Na hranic\u00edch se tro\u0161ku zdr\u017e\u00edme a mokneme. U\u017e je n\u00e1m to tak n\u011bjak fuk. To \u017ee u\u017e moc nevn\u00edm\u00e1m, se projevuje na d\u00e1lnici na Graz. Cedule: 10,8 pova\u017euju automaticky za datum a ani se nad t\u00edm nepozastav\u00edm. Probud\u00ed m\u011b cedule n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed: 11,2 . Tak to je fakt blbost! \u00danor nen\u00ed! To v\u00edm jist\u011b!<\/p>\n Jde o teplotu a j\u00e1 si uv\u011bdomuju, \u017ee bych m\u011bla za\u010d\u00edt myslet na cestu. Kdesi za Grazem p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1 pr\u0161et , zima z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1. A d\u00e1l u\u017e prost\u011b jen dom\u016f. U St. Michael plat\u00edme 7,5E a u Admontu 4,5.<\/p>\n Na n\u011bjak\u00e9 benz\u00ednce j\u00edme a Pepa mi vysv\u011btluje, \u017ee pl\u00e1n dojet dnes dom\u016f je rozumn\u00fd a domy\u0161len\u00fd. Plat\u00ed n\u00e1m 10tidenn\u00ed zn\u00e1mky z\u00a0Dvo\u0159i\u0161t\u011b.<\/p>\n V\u00a018,\u00b0\u00b0 h sund\u00e1v\u00e1me p\u0159ilby z\u00a0hlavy v\u00a0Hab\u0159\u00ed. 1161km za 13 hodin. Hned to p\u00ed\u0161u Mufovi a ten mi odepisuje, \u017ee jsme bl\u00e1zni a \u017ee jsme to od n\u011bj okoukali.<\/p>\n Tak ho l\u00e1k\u00e1me do hospody a dolujeme z\u00a0n\u011bj historku s\u00a0policajty. \u00a0Moc se mu do vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed nechce.<\/p>\n Pak z\u00a0n\u011bj cosi vypadne. Pr\u00fd ho zastavili policajti, byli p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u00ed, koukli do pasu, zhl\u00e9dli raz\u00edtka z\u00a0Montenegra a Alb\u00e1nie a p\u0159estali b\u00fdti p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u00ed. Donutili Mufa vypakovat jeho sk\u016ft\u0159\u00ed kufr, sk\u016ftr skoro rozebrat a s\u00a0p\u0159\u00edsn\u00fdm pr\u00e1sk\u00e1n\u00edm vous\u016f \u0159\u00edkali n\u011bco o \u010detnick\u00e9 stanici ve Splitu. Muf d\u011blal, \u017ee jim nerozum\u00ed, v\u0161e odk\u00fdval a odjel dom\u016f. Z\u00a0toho plyne, \u017ee u\u017e se s\u00a0Mufem do Chorvatska nikdy nepod\u00edv\u00e1me, bo je osobou hledanou a na hranic\u00edch n\u00e1m ho p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b zav\u0159ou.<\/p>\n Dnes ujeto a promoknuto 1161 km.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Celkem ujeto 3027 km<\/strong>. Za t\u00e9hle dovolen\u00e9 jsem poznala v\u00edtr, o kter\u00e9m jsem si myslela, \u017ee existuje jen v\u00a0katastrofick\u00fdch filmech. Hodn\u011b jsme promokli, promrzli. Ale hlavn\u011b jsme kone\u010dn\u011b p\u0159ejeli ony hranice Alb\u00e1nie. Bohu\u017eel m\u00e1me mezery ve fotodokumentaci, co\u017e je v\u00fdzva, abychom tam vyrazili znova J<\/span>\u00a0 a tu zemi si prohl\u00e9dli tro\u0161ku v\u00edce.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Bar\u010daXJR<\/em><\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Je\u0161t\u011b nikdy jsme nep\u0159ekro\u010dili hranice Alb\u00e1nie, je\u0161t\u011b nikdy jsme k\u00a0tomu nenalezli odvahu.\u00a0 A za okny to vypad\u00e1 na\u00a0 listopad. Top\u00edme a n\u011bjak se nechceme sm\u00ed\u0159it s\u00a0faktem, \u017ee se schyluje k\u00a0 zazimov\u00e1n\u00ed. \u017de bychom vyrazili do tepla, projeli si moji obl\u00edbenou Jadranskou magistr\u00e1lu a kone\u010dn\u011b ony magick\u00e9 hranice u Skadarsk\u00e9ho jezera p\u0159ekro\u010dili? Jedeme! Pepa u\u017e se […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1188"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6653,"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188\/revisions\/6653"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1188"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1188"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.motorkarizhabri.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1188"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
\nNa dne\u0161ek je vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00fd voln\u00fd den. Proto vlastn\u011b Muf odjel. Voln\u00fd den ho nebavil a tak jel dom\u016f. My jsme se tak n\u011bjak \u00a0poflakovali po Molunatu. Pravda, j\u00e1 jsem si zajela do Cavtatu. Pepa si p\u0159\u00e1l kapky do unaven\u00fdch o\u010d\u00ed a \u010desk\u00fd tisak. Kapky jsem sehnala, tisak ne, u\u017e je po sez\u00f3n\u011b.<\/p>\n